what donor to get

[JeffsGoblin]

I used Velcro instead of zip-ties. Just thought they my be a bit more reusable.

Chad, do you think the mesh loom will be hard to clean if it gets mud or grease/oil on it compared to the plastic loom? Have you experienced that yet?

 

[ctuinstra]

I used Velcro instead of zip-ties. Just thought they my be a bit more reusable.

Chad, do you think the mesh loom will be hard to clean if it gets mud or grease/oil on it compared to the plastic loom? Have you experienced that yet?

I did the same thing, used zip ties and Velcro.

The mesh loom is not water proof and would probably get water and mud in the mesh. Being plastic, it would still clean but probably not as well as solid loom.

 

[redline]

OK so zip ties/Velcro it is. Is everyone using the Limited slip transmissions I assume?

 

[redline]

I have both regular and LSD's laying around the shop I believe. Can't imagine why we wouldn't want both tires spinning?

 

[ctuinstra]

Many have it but I don't believe you have to have it. It can cause them to spin out under hard driving.

 

[redline]

I could see that but it also would make drifting much easier. guess I can always try it both ways.

 

[redline]

my bid on copart comes up in a few min.

Has anyone came up wit a front wing for these? I think a split front wing would look good along with giving some front down-force.

 

[redline]

I am now the proud owner of a 2008 Cobalt SS TC for the low low cost of $1000 + $490 fees + 805 delivery because I am lazy so a total of $2,295 Not too bad. guess you just have to keep watching that place for what you want to pop up. Now to order the kit and order a built engine from ZZP. Has anyone here really tested what these things will hold on the street for power? Not sure what to have ZZP build for?

 

[JERMzSS]

I am now the proud owner of a 2008 Cobalt SS TC for the low low cost of $1000 + $490 fees + 805 delivery because I am lazy so a total of $2,295 Not too bad. guess you just have to keep watching that place for what you want to pop up. Now to order the kit and order a built engine from ZZP. Has anyone here really tested what these things will hold on the street for power? Not sure what to have ZZP build for?

If i was you i'd start out with the stock engine. I know as gear heads we tend to wana go all out with the biggest power numbers we can get. Trust me power is not an issue with these. My LSJ with only a 2.8 and 60s has left a few people that are accustomed to very fast cars speechless.

 

[redline]

what are you putting down with that setup?

 

[Brian74]

The factory turbo is good for ~260 hp. With the stage III MAP sensors, Opal injectors and a tune, you would be just under 300. Both equate to about 3 seconds from 0-60.

I would just go through that engine and turbo thoroughly. The intake ports will likely have heavy carbon deposits. If you’re still determined to go with a new block, you can save $ on a non-turbo LDK long block and upgrade the turbo later on. I wouldn’t bother with anything “built”. You will be more than amazed with a stock or slightly tuned turbo while maintaining longetivity. There will be many unexpected additional expenses you will encounter later on in the build.

 

[TheNuker]

If i was you i'd start out with the stock engine. I know as gear heads we tend to wana go all out with the biggest power numbers we can get. Trust me power is not an issue with these. My LSJ with only a 2.8 and 60s has left a few people that are accustomed to very fast cars speechless.

So much truth. I let my good friend that has a 600hp camero SS drive the goblin after stage 3 and E85 and he was like holy **** I thought my SS was fast.

Nuker-

 

[redline]

I have never had any luck keeping these Ecotec in one piece, that is why I want to have a backup on the shelf. car in my sig was on its 6th engine, that being said it was our shop car and had a lot of R&D done with it, also made well over 500 hp. I understand these are very light but so is the ariel atom and exocet, but people are putting very high hp engines in those. I was just curious if anyone had made one of these a 400-500 hp monster yet? I know in my old Saturn anything over 450 hp was just for dyno bragging rights unless you were in 5th gear. lol

 

[Brian74]

These engines are solid as long as they are maintained well. When you start modifying them past a certain point without optimal tuning and fuel availability, the price goes up exponentially and longetivity goes away. The Goblin is a compromise of great power to weight ratio.

What are your goals with your Gobln? Bragging rights? Friday night drift king? Quickest drag racing ET’s? Fastest road coarse laps? Car shows? a daily or weekend driver? This should all be a big factor in your overall plans.

Between the turbo and supercharged engine alone the advantages vary considerably and the tuning options can also even be somewhat limited.

 

[JERMzSS]

what are you putting down with that setup?

Id say anywhere from 220 to 240 whp. Figures out to right at 6hp per pound. Same as a hellcat.

Heres a list of cars that are about the same

1. 2017 Dodge Viper SRT ($87,895) – 5.24
2. 2017 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 ($79,450) – 5.42
3. 2017 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 ($61,140) – 5.97
4. 2017 Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat ($62,495) – 6.29
5. 2017 Cadillac CTS-V ($85,595) – 6.47
6. 2017 Dodge Charger SRT Hellcat ($65,945) – 6.57
7. 2017 Chevrolet Corvette Z51 ($60,450) – 7.17
8. 2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio($72,000) – 7.53
9. 2017 Mercedes-Benz AMG C63 ($65,200) – 7.59
10. 2017 Lotus Evora 400 ($89,900) – 7.88

 

[Briann1177]

These numbers threw me off for a second. I think your units are backwards. At 6 HP/lb, a Goblin would have 9000+ HP. That would give a Top Fuel dragster a run for its money.

 

[JERMzSS]

These numbers threw me off for a second. I think your units are backwards. At 6 HP/lb, a Goblin would have 9000+ HP. That would give a Top Fuel dragster a run for its money.

lol it's 6 lbs per hp. I work nights so sometimes words be hard. lol

 

[George]

I have never had any luck keeping these Ecotec in one piece, that is why I want to have a backup on the shelf. car in my sig was on its 6th engine, that being said it was our shop car and had a lot of R&D done with it, also made well over 500 hp. I understand these are very light but so is the ariel atom and exocet, but people are putting very high hp engines in those. I was just curious if anyone had made one of these a 400-500 hp monster yet? I know in my old Saturn anything over 450 hp was just for dyno bragging rights unless you were in 5th gear. lol

What parts did you brake?

Brad

 

[redline]

lol, yes I am sure that was just a typo.

As it is with anyone building one of these it is a toy, definitely not a practical machine. I plan on playing around with it. I haven't built any cars other than my son's WRX since I closed my shops in Chicago and move down to Mississippi. Just looking to get back in the swing of things.

Brian, you bring up a good point even though I disagree with these engines being strong (I have seen too many blown plus the 10+ I have blown on my own cars) The number 4 cylinder always lets go in these once you start pushing over about 300-350 HP. this is with Diamond pistons, arp studs, H-beam rods the works. The issue has always been the fuel rail system. When I got out of the game people were just starting to put in return style fuel rails with regulators on to avoid this problem.

If you look at a lot of other platforms ie. dodge srt4's or evos's this engine really is quite weak in comparison.

 

[redline]

I have writeups I did back in 2005-2006 on redline forums that show everything in order. we broke lots of #4 cylinders, then we broke rods as about 400hp if I recall, crank snapped in half at 520hp so we cryogenically treated a new stock one and pinned it. no more problems with the crank after that. the re-occuring issue was the #4 cylinder.