V1 Bill's Street/Track Goblin - 2007 SS/SC - Chassis #204

[JBINTX]

OK . . . new problem. I was removing the wiring that goes to the spark plugs and I noticed that a bolt was . . . loose.View attachment 13177

To get to that bolt, I removed the ignition coil and found what appear to be water/coolant with some amount of oil
View attachment 13178

Any thoughts on where this coolant may have come from? Perhaps a bad gasket?

EDIT: I did degrease/pressure wash the engine prior to removing it from the car. Perhaps that is the source of the water since that bolt did have the ignition coil slightly unseated.

isn't the loose bolt the one holding the coil pack in place?
The coil pack has several types of rubber seal designs all in one place to keep moisture from the spark plug. The coil pack has a spring to engage the spark plug. If the bolt came loose a little, the spring will maintain contact and the plug will still fire. However, with the loose bolt, water could seep in. Like Rttoys stated, clean it up well and if it looks all good with no cracks in the rubber seal, you could probably reuse it.

Ignition Coil Bolt torque spec:
8 N·m or 71 lb in

 

[Vwsaabvt]

isn't the loose bolt the one holding the coil pack in place?

No the coil bolts sit higher and off to the side by the green lines inthe picture.

 

[ToxicBill]

Got the supercharger off . . should it be this oily? Engine had about 115k miles.

 

[Vwsaabvt]

Thats normal, but I reccomend replacing the pcv valve thats between the jntake manifold and head. Mine was pretty bad.

 

[JBINTX]

Does not look as bad as some.
You can replace the PCV valve. (I have a new one if you want it).
Or you can consider diverting the crank case pressure to an air/oil separator so no oil goes into the intake anymore. You can read some more here:
https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/oil-separator.1596/

 

[ToxicBill]

Does not look as bad as some.
You can replace the PCV valve. (I have a new one if you want it).
Or you can consider diverting the crank case pressure to an air/oil separator so no oil goes into the intake anymore. You can read some more here:
https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/oil-separator.1596/

Yeah, I like that idea.

 

[TheNuker]

Don't forget to take the lamanova cores out and clean them with brake cleaner. My first donor with 75k miles had tons of buildup in there blocking nice flow. Be super careful when pulling them out don't damage the metal on the ends and don't loose the o-rings.
Nuker-

 

[ToxicBill]

Started cleaning the engine this evening. I ran out of daylight so really only got one side done . . . but I must say that it looks really good. So much so that I may just leave it like it is instead of painting it.

Still have a lot of work today though

 

[JBINTX]

sweet!

 

[Vwsaabvt]

I just looked at my brand new gmpp pressure plate and it is grooved like yours.

 

[ToxicBill]

Just placed my order and confirmed chassis #204! I've got a lot to do! SOOOOOOO EXCITED!

 

[ToxicBill]

Question about the timing chain and gear . . . I see a lot of chatter about replacing the tensioners, I wonder if its worthwhile to go ahead and replace the whole thing (chain, gears, guide, etc) including the water pump. Thoughts?

 

[Ross]

Question about the timing chain and gear . . . I see a lot of chatter about replacing the tensioners, I wonder if its worthwhile to go ahead and replace the whole thing (chain, gears, guide, etc) including the water pump. Thoughts?

How many miles on your donor? They are recommended to replace at a certain mileage... but I'm not certain what that is on the LSJ engine. 100,000 miles?

 

[ToxicBill]

Mine is 115k . . . So maybe I should go ahead and do that. Man, there's some more money . .

 

[Ross]

Mine is 115k . . . So maybe I should go ahead and do that. Man, there's some more money . .

Did the last owner just replace the chain and sprockets?
You can check how much wear is on a sprocket/chain by lifting a chain tooth up from a sprocket that the chain is wrapped around.
The original chain tensioner looks like a big bolt - the new style one has the bolt head bumped out.

 

[ToxicBill]

Mine has the old style bolt tensioner, so I'm guessing it's all original equipment

 

[Gsd autos mn]

do them all plus the water pump evergreen has a kit for $160 I think I spent around $215 buying things seperate and going with the cloyes timing chain and cheaper balance set. Cloyes has a VVT updated kit as well if you want the best you can get.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...v4mz1PE8MSJojZqfXWwx0aqtaFtVrUBBoCBzAQAvD_BwE

 

[Vwsaabvt]

Mine is 115k . . . So maybe I should go ahead and do that. Man, there's some more money . .

Lol, it can be never ending if you let it. I'm I,to mine for timing kit, crank bolt, water pump, Dorman upgrade bolt, injectors, dual pass, supercharger pulley and hub, supercharger oil, supercharger coupler, cleaning time, paint, and thats not even done yet. Thats just the engine too, theres still drivtrain and suspension with plenty of parts.

 

[ToxicBill]

I stand corrected . . . Looks like they replaced the tensioner at some point in time.

I'm not sure if it's safe to assume the rest of the timing chain system was done but the bolts look like they've been worked on. I'm putting on a new valve cover gasket so I'll have a closer look then

 

[ToxicBill]

Found instructions on gutting the AC Compressor. any thoughts on whether the two bolts are enough or if the whole body should be reassembled for the third bolt?

AleX1/9's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor - Chassis #18 - WA registered

Good Evening, Just took a quick walk around my car looking for places that I might have added tabs or threaded lugs if I could have before powder coating (some of these are just to get you thinking). Hope this helps, Bruce Big help! Thanks BAR, will take all this into account before...

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