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V1 Clutch relearn?

Lndshrk Steve
Are these the areas you're thinking of?

30962
 
Lndshrk Steve
A BIG thanks to Gtstorey (and Lonny) for help with my fuel pump ground. Ran a jumper and it works! Now I've got no signal at the starter. I have power, ground and continuity to the starter at the CRANK relay. I have continuity for the Purple/White signal wire from the ECM (X1-32). I also have continuity thru the fuse box (something I never thought of checking before). Are we back to the blankity blank relearn on the clutch switch? I haven't pulled codes since the beginning of this thread and right now the fuse box is apart, again . . . As usual, thanks for any and all help.
 
G
How are you checking things with the fuse box disassembled?

You probably need to reassemble everything and attack this from two sides. Check for codes and check to see if the the crank relay is getting voltage from the ECM. It could be something as simple as a loose connection that changes as you measure continuity.

About all we can do from a distance is guess at the problem. That will often work on a production vehicle but not as effective on the Goblin.

I'll send you the wiring diagram for the starting circuit when I get home this evening. Once you get that we can determine whether it's getting voltage to the control side of crank relay it needs to start. If it isn't getting that control voltage from the ECM then we can start the trouble shooting to find out why.
 
Lndshrk Steve
I pulled the fuse box apart because I wanted to make sure I didn't have another bad tracer. I know that the fuse box is good and both the wires to the starter and from the ECM are wired correct. I believe I'm not getting a signal TO the ECM. As I mentioned earlier, I just want to check as much as I can before I call in the GM tech. Thanks.
 
G
Once it is reassembled, it will be easy enough to check for signal for the crank, although you may have to unbundle some wires. If you are sure that the X1-32 pin is correct you should be able to check for voltage there. If nothing else, you can take a sewing pin and stick it through the wire and check voltage. Or you should get a voltage that is only present on one of the crank relay pins when you try to start it since the grounding diagram I posted shows one leg of the control side is ground.
 
Lndshrk Steve
Yes, now that I'm sure X1-32 is correct and nothing else is burned up inside, I can check at the wire. Don't worry, most of my nice harness is now unbundled.
 
G
Not much new in the starting wiring diagram. You could just see if it will run by jumping the relay or wiring a momentary switch directly to the starter. I think it will run without the clutch switch being set up correctly if you force it to crank.
 

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Lndshrk Steve
Yes, I jumped it. Wire from the starter right to the positive post at the fuse box. I'm not jumping anything inside the fuse box again. It cranks so we have a good ground and the starter works. It seems like the "Logic" in the BCM is not playing nice. I'll try to check the codes later, but the reader didn't want to "communicate" this morning.
 
Lndshrk Steve
Not sure. Fixed the short in the fuse box, put everything back together and gave it one more try before I started adding a new switch/wire for the starter. Damned if it didn't work! It sounds healthy and clean. No misfires or anything. In fact I think it sounds louder than I told my wife it would be ;). Maybe it was all that burnt fuse box. Thanks again for you help with that.
 
G
If continues to be come and go type thing, you may need to tighten up the individual wire connectors at fuse block plugs. The more times you take them loose the worse the connections get. I eventually had to unpin all of them and pry the tangs out to tighten them up.
 
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