V1 ctuinstra's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor **Licensed**

[ctuinstra]

Anyone know for sure which passenger side set of holes to mount the SS/SC engine? I haven't been able to find this information and it seems it would work in either. And I can't tell well enough by eye-balling it which is the correct hole. The angle of the picture is off a bit, they line up with both sets.

 

[Briann1177]

I wonder why the mounts have so many holes. Maybe theyre designed to be universal? Does the driver side line up with both possibilities of the passenger side?

 

[ctuinstra]

I wonder why the mounts have so many holes. Maybe theyre designed to be universal? Does the driver side line up with both possibilities of the passenger side?

Yes, universal. They used to have to make different plates for all the possible engine/transmission combinations. The driver side is much more obvious.

 

[Briann1177]

So with the driver side bolted down, you can still line up both sets of holes on the passenger side?

 

[ctuinstra]

So with the driver side bolted down, you can still line up both sets of holes on the passenger side?

Could try, but there's enough play in the bolt holes on the driver side that you could make either one on the passenger side work.

 

[ctuinstra]

I know I getting ahead of myself here, but I like to think of it as planning ahead. I was thinking about how I'm going to mount up the steering wheel buttons and others around the dash. I like how Adam and Lonny did it on theirs. I'm going to have Kaleb design and cut out brackets for them that wrap around the underside of the dash not only to mount the buttons on the left and right side, but to mount the boost gauge and others under the dash. Trust me, I got a plan.

Anyways, I really like these buttons! The come in latching and momentary. The latching for things like the fog lamps, cruise, and hazard lights. The momentary for the Info, Enter, Horn, +, -. The best part is that you can get them in may colors. I like the white. Since we are going with orange and black with hints of white, the white should work very well. I can wire that up to the dash illumination.

 

[Briann1177]

Please keep us posted on what you find out as there are a few of us right behind you in the build process.

I'm curious to know what Kaleb comes up with for the brackets. I've also been thinking about something that wraps around the sides and bottom.

 

[SliderR1]

I remember Adam mentioning that the automatic and manual transmissions were what drove the two separate mounting hole patterns, but I can't remember which ones go with which transmission. One of them is wider front to back.

 

[KJP]

Looks like you have a nice workspace there!

Let me know how the screws work out I may do the same

 

[ctuinstra]

Please keep us posted on what you find out as there are a few of us right behind you in the build process.

I'm curious to know what Kaleb comes up with for the brackets. I've also been thinking about something that wraps around the sides and bottom.

Lonny answered the question here:

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/new-style-engine-transmission-mount.497/

 

[ctuinstra]

Here is the answer to the engine mounts:

New Style Engine/Transmission Mount

 

[ctuinstra]

Here is a great option I found for redoing the wiring harnesses. Instead of using the hard old style plastic loom, this stuff is split also but is much more flexible and less bulky. It has all the same features of split loom but much better looking and more flexible. I just picked up 4 different sizes and have been replacing the loom I just installed. On larger sections of the engine harness, I'm going to stick with the hard loom as it may give more protection and block some of the heat.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Flexo-...var=620245293936&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

[Brian74]

Here is a great option I found for redoing the wiring harnesses. Instead of using the hard old style plastic loom, this stuff is split also but is much more flexible and less bulky. It has all the same features of split loom but much better looking and more flexible. I just picked up 4 different sizes and have been replacing the loom I just installed. On larger sections of the engine harness, I'm going to stick with the hard loom as it may give more protection and block some of the heat.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Flexo-F6-Braided-Cable-Sleeving-Wrap-Split-Loom-Techflex-F6N0-25BK/350999178330?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=620245293936&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Thats the stuff I plan to use when I build my harness.

 

[Briann1177]

A cheaper alternative to the Painless Wiring PowerBraid I was looking at. I couldn't bring myself to pay that much. $1.50/foot for 1/4" No thanks.

 

[ctuinstra]

A cheaper alternative to the Painless Wiring PowerBraid I was looking at. I couldn't bring myself to pay that much. $1.50/foot for 1/4" No thanks.

The link I put up is $0.53 per foot.

 

[Briann1177]

Thats what I meant to say. What you posted is a cheaper alternative to the stuff I found.

 

[ctuinstra]

Thats what I meant to say. What you posted is a cheaper alternative to the stuff I found.

Gotch ya. I misread your original post.

 

[ctuinstra]

WARNING: There is going to be a bit of bragging here.

We wanted to keep the sliders for the seats and use Corbeau seats. It was a painstaking process of drilling and punching out all of the rivets to remove the sliders from the Cobalt seats. They did not want to give it up and some of the rivets are in an area hard to get to. I also did not want to destroy the seat brackets in the meantime since I'm keeping the passenger seat to make a nice garage chair to put my shoes on and sit down to think.

In order to adapt the sliders to the Corbeau seats we needed to make a adaptor plate for the two different bolt patterns. I worked with my son on getting the measurements. He took the information and took it to school to design and cut out a plate. The funny thing is, he doesn't even take metalshop, but he is allowed to program the automated plasma cutter machine (he is one of only two students currently allowed to program it). He was able to cut it out of stainless steel (so I don't have to paint or powder coat it)!

Here is the prototype design, the final design ended up much different. I'm so proud of what he is able to do! I couldn't have done some of this without him!

Cutting on the plasma cutter.

We added a raised lip to the front to rake the seat back more. This also made the material stronger having the bend in it. We had to cut out the center section to make room for the seat cushion to sag down some.

This is just a rough mock up. Just tossed together to see how well it's working. The handle barely sticks out the front of the seat, it looks like it sticks out really far here.

We still need to drill the front mounting holes. We decided to cut them after the bends because is changes the angle and the measurements. He calculated the extra length needed in order to put the two 45 degree bends in it. It helps that he is so good with math!

A 1" spacer will be added here in the front. It just happens that I had a piece of small stainless steel tubing (not shown) that fit just perfect.

 

[KJP]

Brag away that came out awesome.
Any idea what size of driver this should be able to acomidate comfortably with the position you have the seat on the slider?

 

[ctuinstra]

Brag away that came out awesome.
Any idea what size of driver this should be able to acomidate comfortably with the position you have the seat on the slider?

Well considering the brackets allow for full movement forward and aft, I'd say just about any type of driver/rider would fit. I also have the extended frame which gives four more inches in the length of the cabin. Without the extended frame, there will some limitations. The sliders move about 12" or more!

The seats that I'm using are 1" wider than the standard seats. My hip bones would rub fairly hard on the regular seats and I was afraid it would bother me over time.