V1 Grants Full Cage Goblin - '06 LT NA Donor

[RGSkid70]

I think the original design for a manual shifter (using the donor's shifter) has a singles piece tunnel cap. The shifter cables back to the engine laid on top of the tunnel cap. The spacers were included in the parking brake kit to mount the parking brake handle and allow clearance underneath for the shifter cables. Spacers are not necessary if you're using the DF billet shifter, or, like me, you cut a hole in the tunnel cap to route the shifter cables thru the tunnel under the parking brake handle.

 

[GrantSmith6]

Ok thank you for the info. My tunnel cap where the parking brake handle goes has rivnuts and the machine screws don't have the same thread pitch as the rivnuts. I will do some more investigating with lining things up and such.

 

[GrantSmith6]

I'm continuing work on my car and I received most of the parts I have been waiting on from DF, but there seems to still be one on backorder. That is the mounting plate for the shift cables on the transmission side of the car. I want to try to make one myself but I am unsure about distances/dimensions. Does anyone else have any idea what the design dimensions are for the cable mount for an early model manual transmission? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am trying to get my car driving asap. Thanks!

 

[Ross]

I used the Cobalt cable mounts.

 

[GrantSmith6]

Interesting. See my problem is that when I use the stock cobalt mounting plate, the cables do not have enough range of motion to actually push and pull like they are supposed to, so would I have to fabricate a 3-inch spacing plate like you have done? I also do not have the extended frame nor do I have the F35 transmission like you do. I will also have to grind down the metal lobes on the shift arms as they contact my frame. I'll also add some photos so its easier to see visually whats going on.

 

[Ross]

Does the other end of the cable (at the shifter) have a shorter distance from the pivot to the mount?
Have you adjusted the end of the cables at the shifter? I see you are maxed out here at the transmission.

 

[GrantSmith6]

I just checked and both ends of the shifter cables are the same length on both ends unfortunately. Also yes I adjusted the cables at the shifter end. Is the shifter plate that you have (the one you aren't using) the same for the F23 trans?

 

[Ross]

I doubt it, as looking at your transmission, the mounting bolts are at a different angle.

 

[GrantSmith6]

Gotcha, well thank you for the help! I know that RGSkid70 had the same issue with the shift lobes as I have so maybe he also has some info on how he hooked up his trans side shift cables.

 

[Rauq]

Does this help?

 

[GrantSmith6]

Yes that does help and looks like what I am dealing with. Is that the bracket from DF or did you make it yourself?

 

[Rauq]

This is DF's bracket. I believe it should be included with the kit for an NA donor, but I'm speculating because I bought mine separately when I swapped from an F35 to an F23. I got an F35 bracket with my kit which I used for a year before swapping transmissions.

 

[GrantSmith6]

Ok gotcha, I think that is the one on backorder that I am waiting on, so I might try to use your pictures in the meantime to make one until I receive the one from DF. Thanks!

 

[GrantSmith6]

I am getting extremely close to finished with my build and I am looking for helmets as I want to start Auto-crossing it ASAP. I like the Sparco Sky Rf-7W but it is pretty spendy and I was wondering if any of you had recommendations for helmets with similar certifications and HANS device compatibility. Anything in the $500 range? Maybe a little more expensive too?

 

[TheAnesthetist]

This is the one I wear. It's comfortable and quiet

 

[GrantSmith6]

Thank you that looks like a good option to me. Any other recommendations that are HANS device ready? Or just other options in general too?

 

[TravMac]

Do you already have a HANS device? If not, you should consider the NecksGen as an alternative that's comfortable and easy to work with for the constant in and out of the car you get with Autocross. You can also get relatively inexpensive, latest SNELL rated helmets from Summit with mounting ready for these devices. You can spend more for more comfort/noise control/looks... but for function and getting going quickly Summit may be your friend.

 

[GrantSmith6]

No, I do not, but I wanted to buy a helmet that could be used with one just to prevent the need to buy an entirely new helmet down the line. I'll take a look into the NecksGen, and take a look at summit again. Also, I've heard extremely mixed reviews on both sides good and bad, but does anyone have any thoughts on RuRoc helmets?

 

[TravMac]

I think they mostly make motorcycle helmets right? For autocross you really want to get something that's accepted by the SCCA. I attached the pdf for accepted autocross helmet ratings. Filter by those requirements and you should be all set! Remember there's a difference between motorcycle helmet ratings and racing helmet ratings. RaceQuip has affordable helmets that are functional for what you want to do, so maybe look into those.

 

[GrantSmith6]

Great thanks! I did some more digging last night and I think I am going to stretch my price range a little bit and go with the Bell GP3 Sport.