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V1 John S's Full Cage Goblin - 07 SS/SC Donor

J
Yeah I'll attempt it all with no cutting just to save the added effort, if the quick jacks can get it high enough to roll out on it's own I'll go that way. If not it's nice to have the option to cut it free.

All of this is now probably getting delayed somewhat because the powder coater just called and the chassis is ready to pick up tomorrow, so I need to scramble to get the other half of the garage ready for it tonight.
 
Rttoys
51166
 
J
Well, we're back after an extended delay. Surgery recovery took longer than expected and a wall of other projects popped up.

Finally got the powertrain dropped last night, and think I only broke one thing in the process, so pretty good by my standards.

Next up I need to finish removing everything possible from the donor and figure out how to get it out of the garage to free up space.

54229
 
J
I also need to figure out some sort of stand/bench to get the powertrain onto so I can work on it.

In the downtime I decided to scale down my plans a bit, I'm shelving the tube subframe/F23 swap for now and am just going to get the car up and running on the donor subframe with the F35. All I plan on doing on the powertrain for now is the ZZPerformance's timing chain kit and their high output intercooler pump.

I'm hoping I can get it up and running (and street legal, which I suspect will be the hard part) by March. I have a bit of a stupid plan to run it in SCCA's Targa Texasland next year. We ran that in my Camaro this year and it was a blast. I think doing it in a Goblin would crank the challenge level way up, which sounds fun to me.
 
Markm
I have a hydraulic lift table from harbor freight that I used as a powertrain table for the wife’s Goblin
 
J
I don't, I was planning on getting one, but as I was debating swapping to an f23 transmission, and the subframe is specific to the transmission, I'm holding off for now.
 
J
I have a hydraulic lift table from harbor freight that I used as a powertrain table for the wife’s Goblin

That looks like the perfect solution, do you happen to know if you have the 500 or 1000lb version?

Trying to get an idea of what the whole powertrain weighs is a bit of challenge
 
Markm
That looks like the perfect solution, do you happen to know if you have the 500 or 1000lb version?

Trying to get an idea of what the whole powertrain weighs is a bit of challenge
I have the 1,000 lb version.
 

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Rauq
I don't, I was planning on getting one, but as I was debating swapping to an f23 transmission, and the subframe is specific to the transmission, I'm holding off for now.
For what it's worth, the effort to swap transmissions is minimal. You need a new thermostat housing and to DIY the coolant lines to the oil cooler, and a new transmission-mounted shifter cable bracket. If you weren't also considering doing the tubular subframe, I'd say to go ahead and do the trans swap so as to not have to pull the powertrain again later.

Then again, I'd guess the tubular subframe swap can be done without pulling the powertrain, but I don't know that for certain. But I would certainly advocate here as elsewhere that you shouldn't unnecessarily put roadblocks in front of completing a build, and getting everything running first with your stock trans and subframe is a good idea.
 
J
I'm worried less about the actual install work at the moment than I am timeline and cost to get all the parts. I don't mind taking things back apart later to make upgrades when the time comes, but I tend to lose momentum when I get bogged down in decisions. I'll get it up and running the simple way just to keep moving for now and plan the next upgrades once I have it running.

I fully expect to have the powertrain come out at a later date anyways for engine mods, because I'm a hopeless tinkerer and I know I won't be able to help myself :)
 
J
No photos today, just some train of thought updates and questions.

- Focusing on getting everything ripped out of the donor so I can get it out of the garage, and clear out a storage unit that is only holding parts for the Goblin and scrap from the donor. I got most of the interior stripped out, next step is to drop the dash out. Saw these weird tubes running to the parking brakes, I assume I won't need those so I smashed them flat with a hammer and then melted them down with a torch just for fun.

- I'm curious how getting the chassis out of the garage is going to go. I plan on lowering it off the quick jacks onto wooden dollies, but my garage has about an inch drop to the driveway surface, and the driveway is a hill that goes into the street which is an even steeper hill. Not sure the chassis would stay on the dollies reliably. Maybe I just bolt the dollies to the chassis, and then use my floor mounted winch to ease it down the driveway? That'll be a fun discovery process.

- I realized I missed a step of prep work by not getting the floor/bulkhead panels powder coated when I got the chassis done. Going to try to pull the valve cover off the engine and take it along with the sheet metal to get coated.

- For the exhaust, I don't think powder coating will hold up to the heat so I'm thinking of just using a high temp spray paint, but I'll dig around the forum to see what the prevailing wisdom is.

- Playing the balancing act of Goblin work vs. project truck work vs. event prep for current track car makes it hard to keep the momentum, but I'm hoping things quiet down on those other fronts shortly.
 
Rauq
Saw these weird tubes running to the parking brakes, I assume I won't need those so I smashed them flat with a hammer and then melted them down with a torch just for fun.
Following to see if you end up trying to cast replacement tubes from your new ingots or forge new stock and roll your replacement tubing

Going to try to pull the valve cover off the engine and take it along with the sheet metal to get coated.
You probably knew this or would've figured it out but please make sure your folks are capable of keeping blasting media out of the baffles inside of the valve cover.
 
Robinjo
You probably knew this or would've figured it out but please make sure your folks are capable of keeping blasting media out of the baffles inside of the valve cover.

Or drill the baffles rivets out, grind them smooth and then tap it for a M4 bolt to reinstall the baffles.
 
J
Following to see if you end up trying to cast replacement tubes from your new ingots or forge new stock and roll your replacement tubing
I'm planning on forging a religious relic out of them so that a deity will lead me to finding replacements.

You probably knew this or would've figured it out but please make sure your folks are capable of keeping blasting media out of the baffles inside of the valve cover.
It's always safe to assume I don't know something, and I only figure things out the hard way, so thanks for the heads up :)

Or drill the baffles rivets out, grind them smooth and then tap it for a M4 bolt to reinstall the baffles.
I'll have to look into this once I get them off to see if it's something I think I can do without having to find a new valve cover shortly after.
 
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