V1 JS City Goblin - 2010 LS

[JSATX]

My factory built red Goblin gets 32 mpg .I have 7000 fun miles in one year.2010 automatic

That's cool! I expect mine to creep up as I get more miles in it.

Gotta be honest though. I pretty much shift at redline every take off. I have a backup engine now and I am not being gentle on this one.

 

[JSATX]

Well this is happening.

 

[TCR801]

HELL YA!!!! How big of a shot are you starting at?

 

[JSATX]

HELL YA!!!! How big of a shot are you starting at?

55 for now. I'm being pretty cautious with three layers of safety. Have a window switch wired into a WOT with both connected to a fuel pressure cut off switch.

So it will spray automatically when fuel pressure is above 50psi, TPS is at 100%, and engine RPMs are above 3,000. Then automatically turns off at 5,100.

Also have the AEM wideband o2 with logging.

 

[AleX1/9]

Yes! What size bottle and where? So many cool spots for a nitrous bottle

 

[JSATX]

Yes! What size bottle and where? So many cool spots for a nitrous bottle

All I have are two ten pound bottles. They are way too big to fit anywhere except on top of the gas tank. If you have any ideas let me know.

Here's my current plan: my passenger seat is bolted to the frame on a removable bracket. I'm thinking of making a matching bracket that holds two ten pound tanks side by side. A third 5lb tank is installed laying down above the fuel tank. The two larger ones are just for show/fun/drag days when I don't have a passenger.

My only other idea was to put one or two 5lb bottles on the rear vertical supports over the engine. That would look pretty cool especially if they were polished tanks or something.

All this is happening because I hit a wall with my turbo install. I have every last part ready to be installed down to the bits and taps for the fittings. But I found out it's going to be $300 for ZZP to tune it and I thought it would be more like $100.

Typically I wouldn't do this, but that price is way too much so I will. If anyone else is thinking of converting to turbo and would want to share the base turbo tune and cost let me know.

 

[Johvans]

All this is happening because I hit a wall with my turbo install. I have every last part ready to be installed down to the bits and taps for the fittings. But I found out it's going to be $300 for ZZP to tune it and I thought it would be more like $100.

$300 isn't bad for a base tune to get you going but IMHO you still won't be where you need to be with a canned mail to order tune for a turbo car. I'm budgeting $800 for my dyno tune and I may end up traveling to Tennessee for it. This is arguably the most important part of the car...

Typically I wouldn't do this, but that price is way too much so I will. If anyone else is thinking of converting to turbo and would want to share the base turbo tune and cost let me know.

If someone wanted to share the base tune you would still need HPTuners in order to flash the ECU and you'd need credits for your VIN or spend a lot of credits to have your cobalt year covered. The standard HP tuners package is $499 and pro is $649.. plus the credits for the VIN or make and model.... just trying to let you know what you are looking at.

 

[JSATX]

If someone wanted to share the base tune you would still need HPTuners in order to flash the ECU and you'd need credits for your VIN or spend a lot of credits to have your cobalt year covered. The standard HP tuners package is $499 and pro is $649.. plus the credits for the VIN or make and model.... just trying to let you know what you are looking at.

That was assuming I go use DFs HPT. But yeah I guess it's not that much. It's just a lot when you're like I am and spent the last two weeks sourcing turbo parts for cheap. I have $350 into the entire turbo build. So doubling what I've spent so far sounds like a lot.

 

[JSATX]

Had a ton of fun today in the Goblin. It was an absolutely gorgeous day today after last nights storms. Went out to the F1 track for a Sochi F1 race watch party. They had an AutoX course set up for anyone who wanted to burn a little rubber after watching the race. So of course I had to try.

I have never been on an AutoX course before so naturally my runs were exceedingly slow. I was told to leave it in first until I got used to it so thats why my rpms are so high.....But anyway I had a blast.

Then after that there was a small car show right by my house so I swung in on my way home. Everyone swarmed me before I could even get out of the car. Definitely going to need those business cards!

 

[JSATX]

Ran into my first problem since getting it registered. Apparently my gas level sending unit is stuck. Because I ran out of gas when it was indicating full.

Due to NOS and the eventual turbo I have been considering upgrading the fuel pump anyway. May be a good time to do that.

Also considering adding a sight glass of some sort to the fuel tank. Gauges are nice but I have a bad history with fuel gauges not working correctly.....

 

[JSATX]

So I'm going to add a very simple sight gauge to the side of the tank. Because I realized that while filling it at the station I don't know when it's full. I don't want fuel coming all the way up into the rubber hose.

So as soon as it's empty next time I'm going to braze a brass elbow at the bottom and top of the tank and run a clear fuel line to instantly be able to see the level as I pump the gas in.

Which probably means I'd never pass safety inspection in a race...but are there any other reasons I shouldn't do this?

 

[Silverback]

"...my dyno tune and I may end up traveling to Tennessee for it. This is arguably the most important part of the car..."

I agree. Wow, didn't know of a Tennessee tuner familiar with our engines & ECU. Thought I'd have to go to Atlanta. Love to find someone close.

 

[Silverback]

So I'm going to add a very simple sight gauge to the side of the tank... Which probably means I'd never pass safety inspection in a race...but are there any other reasons I shouldn't do this?

That would be a very weak link in a system susceptible to catastrophic failure. You might get away with it at a local autocross, but at a diligent safety steward is not likely to pass you.

It may be possible that an inexpensive infrared thermometer could give you an indication of fuel level, particularly as you fill the tank. But I'd prefer to rely on a properly functioning fuel gauge.

 

[TCR801]

Thanks for the video, sure did scoot in second gear.

 

[JSATX]

That would be a very weak link in a system susceptible to catastrophic failure. You might get away with it at a local autocross, but at a diligent safety steward is not likely to pass you.

It may be possible that an inexpensive infrared thermometer could give you an indication of fuel level, particularly as you fill the tank. But I'd prefer to rely on a properly functioning fuel gauge.

"Safety Fast" was an old MG slogan and it still holds true today.

The problem is even a perfectly functioning fuel gage isn't going to tell you when to stop the pump.

 

[JSATX]

Thanks for the video, sure did scoot in second gear.

It really likes that second gear change. Pulls just as hard as first it seems.

 

[JSATX]

Can anyone with a manual confirm the throttle body wiring? Need a voltage input wire for my WOT switch.

edit: Purple wire on throttle body. Approx 1.5V at idle, 4.2V at full throttle.

 

[JSATX]

Nitrous update: Have solenoids, WOT switch, and fuel pressure cutoff switch all wired and working correctly. However I have been totally unsuccessful in picking up a tach signal for my MSD window switch (PN 8956). MSD wants you to buy some $100 tach signal adapter for this car, but I'm just too cheap to believe that's necessary.

Cobalt forums reference the purple wire on coil #1, no luck with that one.

 

[Lonny]

The crank trigger wires coming out of the front of the engine are yellow, green and purple. I don't know if your system will see the pulses that it generates though. They are located near the starter, close to the bell housing.

 

[JSATX]

The crank trigger wires coming out of the front of the engine are yellow, green and purple. I don't know if your system will see the pulses that it generates though. They are located near the starter, close to the bell housing.

Well the problem is the box is designed to be triggered by a coil, it has settings for 4,6, and 8 cylinders. A crank trigger would probably make it think the Rpms were double if not 4x