V1 Manny's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC Donor

[Briann1177]

Looking at the second picture, is the other end of that red/white wire connected to you OBD-II connector? If so, then that loose end should pair up with a wire from the big connector you removed earlier that connects the two harnesses.

 

[Lonny]

Set a volt meter on continuity and check each wire you are not sure of back to which pin and plug they originate from and we can look them up.

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

Set a volt meter on continuity and check each wire you are not sure of back to which pin and plug they originate from and we can look them up.

I think for now I am going to leave it as is, I took some notes and there are really only 2 wires that could have been messed up. The one brake or clutch brown wire, I just need to make sure I figure that out later on, then the red striped wire from the OBD2.

Slight change of plans for powder coating. The silver vein was going to be an up charge and take longer to get it all in. After a ton of debating, I decided to go with a gloss black frame to match the wheels. Hopefully I can find a good wrap to set off the body panels down the road.

I started messing with the engine a little. Replaced the thermostat and I took off the AC compressor so I could take it apart and remove the guts. I only really saw one bolt on the top of the pulley and once removed it really wouldn't budge and I didnt want to mess it up. Anyone care to share how they gutted their?
Long story short. I think the engine is going to take longer than expected. So I am going to just take off a day this week in efforts to get it all cleaned up and good to go.

 

[Briann1177]

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/alex1-9s-city-goblin-07-ss-sc-donor.144/page-2#post-1553

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

Slight update. Started stripping the motor and got the engine harness removed and labled. Removed a few items off the engine including the supercharger. Also took off the front engine cover so I could take a look at the timing guides. They all look new so I am just going to swap the tensioner for a new style one. Pretty happy about that.

Tomorrow I am planning on stripping the rest of the engine and prepping it for paint. The corrosion on the engine isn't coming off easy either and there are a lot of hard to reach places.

I am excited and hating tomorrow all at once. Debating on the soda blaster but I still don't have a huge compressor and I'd have to run out and get it. I guess I'll see how it goes.

 

[theeulogy]

Your engine looks like mine did before about 8 hours of cleaning Monday, by hand with SOS pads, Purple Power and a pressure washer. That and the wiring harness are the 2 things that I was not looking forward to.

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

Got a good amount done. Engine is painted but I still need to prep and paint the supercharger manifold, supercharger and valve cover. Still not sure what color want to go with. I think I still have some spots to touch up.

Overall I'm glad it's done but I think if I had better tools I could have prepped it a little better.

So the AC compressor. I'm pretty sure once I get the belt on it's going to end up making noises because the front cover thing isn't as tight because the inside is gutted. I may need to put a washer on the inside. I'm going to have to look at a few people's builds and see what theirs looks like.

I ordered a new starter and chain tensioner. Gotta love Amazon wearhouse open box deals.

Up next...finish painting. Then look and see what I need to do with the engine harness. I think I should have the frame mid next week.

 

[TheNuker]

You can actually remove the whole back section of the AC compressor. Been running mine like this for about 6500 miles now.

Nuker-

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

You can actually remove the whole back section of the AC compressor. Been running mine like this for about 6500 miles now.

Nuker-

Did you remove the star bolt that holds the top on?

 

[TheNuker]

Here is what mine looks like, **** that needs some clean/paint lol

Nuker-

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

Thanks. That answers my question. And we'll fix the potential noise

 

[ctuinstra]

You should be able to run the compressor without the guts without any issues of it being loose. Like Nuker showed, the snap ring holds the bearing on the shaft. That's all you need is the shaft mounted, the bearing in place and the snap ring to hold it. You can ditch the clutch and just run the bearing and pulley. Lots of weight and drag lost there!

 

[ctuinstra]

Engine looks good!

Check your supercharger coolant pump if you haven't already! Put 12V on it and make sure it turns on. Better yet, plan to replace it. Those things are junk! I checked mine and sure enough - DEAD. Brushes were totally gone at 116K. They are known to be bad and most people are never aware of it. $89 for the pump.

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

You should be able to run the compressor without the guts without any issues of it being loose. Like Nuker showed, the snap ring holds the bearing on the shaft. That's all you need is the shaft mounted, the bearing in place and the snap ring to hold it. You can ditch the clutch and just run the bearing and pulley. Lots of weight and drag lost there!

Yeah. I gutted it but then left the clutch. I'm going to remove the clutch now. I was worried about not running the top piece but it doesn't look like it's needed at all

 

[ctuinstra]

Save the o-rings from the clutch pipes. They didn't come in the kit for me. Remove them off of both ends of the tube and save them. You won't need the plastic clutch tube, the kit comes with all new tubes with the fittings solder on, but no o-rings.

Sorry, I just keep thinking of things.

 

[Karter2026]

Save the o-rings from the clutch pipes. They didn't come in the kit for me. Remove them off of both ends of the tube and save them. You won't need the plastic clutch tube, the kit comes with all new tubes with the fittings solder on, but no o-rings.

Sorry, I just keep thinking of things.

Good input. It helps all of us!

 

[TheNuker]

Seconded on the SC coolant pump, mine was dead at 67k.....

Nuker-

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

Well, I was having regrets about going with black on the frame. I didn't realize but Matt (Off The Ranch Guy) has the same wheels I ended up picking up, and his frame is black. Then I also wanted it to be a little "louder" so I ended up calling my powder coat guy and he had not started. Ended up going with something similar to the silver vein, but went with Empire Copper Vein. I think itll look good with the black wheels, and still will enable me to do something with the wrap. From further away itll look like a dark bronze/copper but up close itll have a little more detail.

I also used the chilton site to figure out a few of the wires. I still cannot figure out where that Red / Pink and white wire end up at from the OBD2.
The one pressure sensor that I was looking for is an Clutch Petal Position Sensor, and so I found the pins for it. I just need to track it down and see where I went wrong.

I have seen a few other people take the AC sensor out of the engine harness? I'd prefer not to unwrap it if I dont have to and I'd guess the MAF is already long enough to reach where its going to go. Do I really need to remove it?

 

[Briann1177]

The red/white wire from your OBD-II connector should run all the way back to your fuse box. Here's how mine runs. Your's should be very similar. The right most circuit labeled "DLC".

 

[Briann1177]

As far as removing the extraneous stuff from your engine harness, it's really up to you. Some people like to remove every little bit that's not needed, and others including me like to leave well enough alone. There is no technical need to get rid of it.