V1 Neodied's #375 Extended Track - 07 SS/SC donor

[neodied]

Engine pulled, dash removed, wiring harness extracted. Much progress. Frame should arrive this week!

I think basically all I have left with the donor is: fuel system, rear suspension, and dash stripping. Then starting the harness and powertrain prep.

Removing the steering wheel from the steering shaft is harder than I expected since it does not appear to have the standard threaded holes for a steering wheel puller tool. I made a few attempts to use the "claw" style of attachments but it wasn't sitting nicely and just slipped off. I know I might be able to just whack on it like in the DF disassembly video, but I prefer trying this way first.

Also I definitely need to start calling powdercoat shops to get my frame in their queue...

 

[Sluggonaut]

Removing the steering wheel from the steering shaft is harder than I expected since it does not appear to have the standard threaded holes for a steering wheel puller tool. I made a few attempts to use the "claw" style of attachments but it wasn't sitting nicely and just slipped off. I know I might be able to just whack on it like in the DF disassembly video, but I prefer trying this way first.

I went through this exact same scenario. I tried 2 different pullers with no luck. I went the video route and after 2 swings of the hammer, it was off.

The puller fiasco was 45 minutes of my life I will never get back. The hammer method was 30 seconds of pure productivity.

 

[neodied]

Yeah, if I could go back in time pre-dash-removal, I'd actually recommend to my past self to try the primitive "loosen the nut then pound the wheel with your fists" method which seems to be the method of choice for a lot of people without a puller.

 

[neodied]

I went through this exact same scenario. I tried 2 different pullers with no luck. I went the video route and after 2 swings of the hammer, it was off.

The puller fiasco was 45 minutes of my life I will never get back. The hammer method was 30 seconds of pure productivity.

I just did this and yeah super easy. 2 swings to break the plastic trim on the back, then 2 swings hitting the metal steering wheel frame, and that was all it took.

 

[neodied]

Okay, another hiccup: clutch pedal white plastic clip on the back side. I'm pinching the two tabs together and pulling pretty dang hard but it does not want to disconnect. I am keeping the metal rod in line with the clip axis as I'm pulling. I have the clutch pedal assembly out of the dash and I have tried pulling from several angles with and without pliers, screwdrivers, etc.

Any tips?

 

[Ross]

Clutch pedal

Watched the video & it's all about the Automatic Transmission version. As far as the 5 Speed manual what do you need to save/remove from the dash for the clutch pedal? Looks like you may need to do some cutting? Is ther a vodeo covering that. Thanks !!!

dfkitcar.com

 

[Lonny]

Okay, another hiccup: clutch pedal white plastic clip on the back side. I'm pinching the two tabs together and pulling pretty dang hard but it does not want to disconnect. I am keeping the metal rod in line with the clip axis as I'm pulling. I have the clutch pedal assembly out of the dash and I have tried pulling from several angles with and without pliers, screwdrivers, etc.

Any tips?

Pivot the rod toward the food pedal pad, so it is not between the white plastic clip. Carefully and cautiously squeeze the clip with some pliers and you should be able to easily remove the clutch master cylinder.

 

[neodied]

Pivot the rod toward the food pedal pad, so it is not between the white plastic clip.

This was the secret, thanks Lonny! I thought I tried this already but gave it another shot and it was indeed easy.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Lonny is truly an inspiration to us all as the keeper of Goblin knowledge!!!

 

[neodied]

Cobalt shell gone, frame and Stage 1 hardware arrived yesterday, woo! Mildly disappointed that I don't have the wiring harness rework kit to start on that, but I understand the supply issues going on right now.

Couple days ago I called Supreme Powder Coating on Groesbeck and also did an online inquiry. They haven't gotten back to me yet. I really want to get something lined up for powder coating ASAP so the frame is not sitting gathering surface rust in my garage for longer than necessary. Time to call around to other shops as well.

 

[jirwin]

Its a drive for you (Ithaca), but Powdercoat of Central MI did mine. Good group of guys

Powder Coating and Ceramic Coating | Ithaca, Michigan

Powder Coat of Central Michigan can handle all your powder coating and ceramic coating needs. We have a large capacity oven and a variety of colors.

powdercoatcm.com

 

[SmsDetroit]

Cobalt shell gone, frame and Stage 1 hardware arrived yesterday, woo! Mildly disappointed that I don't have the wiring harness rework kit to start on that, but I understand the supply issues going on right now.

Couple days ago I called Supreme Powder Coating on Groesbeck and also did an online inquiry. They haven't gotten back to me yet. I really want to get something lined up for powder coating ASAP so the frame is not sitting gathering surface rust in my garage for longer than necessary. Time to call around to other shops as well.

That’s who did mine. I was very happy with the job he did.

 

[neodied]

Its a drive for you (Ithaca), but Powdercoat of Central MI did mine. Good group of guys

Powder Coating and Ceramic Coating | Ithaca, Michigan

Powder Coat of Central Michigan can handle all your powder coating and ceramic coating needs. We have a large capacity oven and a variety of colors.

powdercoatcm.com

Thanks for the recommendation! I think I will keep searching in the Detroit Metro for now but if nothing works out here, I'll for sure keep them in mind as a backup.

 

[Mahkoi]

I'm not sure what his lead time on the frame would be right now but I talked to Brian at quality powdercoat in Highland yesterday and he was about 2 weeks out on a set of wheels. Part of that is he has to order the color I want. He's always really quick at replying to emails when I've talked with him. He did my frame last summer and it took a while but I know he's working on trying to get his lead times down so it might be worth a shot.

Quality Powdercoat & Sandblasting

www.qpcoat.com

 

[neodied]

I'm not sure what his lead time on the frame would be right now but I talked to Brian at quality powdercoat in Highland yesterday and he was about 2 weeks out on a set of wheels. Part of that is he has to order the color I want. He's always really quick at replying to emails when I've talked with him. He did my frame last summer and it took a while but I know he's working on trying to get his lead times down so it might be worth a shot.

Quality Powdercoat & Sandblasting

www.qpcoat.com

Thanks, I will reach out to him!

 

[Sluggonaut]

I really want to get something lined up for powder coating ASAP so the frame is not sitting gathering surface rust in my garage for longer than necessary.

I wouldn't worry about surface rust, it will get removed during blasting/prep. Whether it sits for a day or a month, it needs to be prepped before coating.

 

[k.rollin]

Cobalt shell gone, frame and Stage 1 hardware arrived yesterday, woo! Mildly disappointed that I don't have the wiring harness rework kit to start on that, but I understand the supply issues going on right now.

Couple days ago I called Supreme Powder Coating on Groesbeck and also did an online inquiry. They haven't gotten back to me yet. I really want to get something lined up for powder coating ASAP so the frame is not sitting gathering surface rust in my garage for longer than necessary. Time to call around to other shops as well.

The wiring harness rework kit isn't strictly required. You'll have more than enough wire from what you thin out to make any necessary extensions, additions, or repairs. Just make sure to match wire gauges and if you change colors, make a note of it for future reference if you need to troubleshoot (label maker heat shrink is great for this).

Don't worry about the surface rust; it'll get removed during the prep work activities at the powder coating shop (i.e., sand blasting). I'd suggest taking time to make any chassis modifications before going to powder coating too (e.g., a harness bar at the correct height).

 

[Sluggonaut]

What harness video are you on currently?

Even after removing all of the tape, loom, and ties, there's still all of the thinning to be completed before you need anything out of the rework kit. IIRC, you should be good through the first 5 videos or so before you need the rework kit.

 

[Rttoys]

Yep. Plenty to do in the harness before you start putting it back together. Plus, all of it can be done with scraps off the unused harness.

 

[neodied]

Thanks all for the nudges to get started with the first few wiring videos, will kick that off this week.

I ordered some preventative maintenance parts to take care of while I have the engine out:
- Dual pass intercooler plate
- Intercooler pump
- Timing chain tensioner
- Serpentine belt (stock length)
- Timing chain guide bolt
Anything as far as seals/gaskets that I should also replace for a 120K mile motor? Injectors? spark plugs? For now I'm hoping to avoid a full teardown and rebuild for time's sake, but I don't mind cleaning up easily reachable bits.

I am forgoing any performance upgrades at the moment to keep the assembly simple and allow room for future work when the inspiration hits.