V1 Pisco's extended city goblin #220 (2009 SS/TC donor) Registered

[pisco]

Are those the Corbeau harnesses that come with the seats or something different? I seem to recall my Corbeau harnesses had the adjuster outside the seat and I pulled the tail back through the hole and towards the buckle to tighten. I've since installed new harnesses that are "pull down" (as opposed to "pull up") with the adjuster at the buckle, as duthehustle93 mentioned.

They didn't come with the seats, I ordered them off the corbeau website. https://corbeau.com/products/5-point-harness-belts
They are a bit expensive and I don't want to buy another set at this point

I would think they have run into this problem before and hopefully there is a simple solution. I don't want to weld a new tab on the tube as that would involve re pulling a radiator hose and I'm positive getting that out in one piece is not worth the effort. If the coolant hose comes out of the frame rail I will weld AN fittings on both sides and use the tube as my coolant pipe.




EDIT:
I just got off the phone with Corbeau support, I must admit I feel dumb! I didn't realize the seats ship with latch and link pull down belts, they were in the bottom of the box under some bubble wrap on the passenger seat. Problem 1 solved, now I have a set of camlock belts for sale (or pay a 15% restocking fee) and need to fabricate new seat brackets. I am currently thinking of using a 2" x 3/16 flat bar and drilling it to extend the existing mounting brackets foreward several inches giving me multiple mounting points.

 

[Sparvy]

They didn't come with the seats, I ordered them off the corbeau website. https://corbeau.com/products/5-point-harness-belts
They are a bit expensive and I don't want to buy another set at this point

I would think they have run into this problem before and hopefully there is a simple solution. I don't want to weld a new tab on the tube as that would involve re pulling a radiator hose and I'm positive getting that out in one piece is not worth the effort. If the coolant hose comes out of the frame rail I will weld AN fittings on both sides and use the tube as my coolant pipe.




EDIT:
I just got off the phone with Corbeau support, I must admit I feel dumb! I didn't realize the seats ship with latch and link pull down belts, they were in the bottom of the box under some bubble wrap on the passenger seat. Problem 1 solved, now I have a set of camlock belts for sale (or pay a 15% restocking fee) and need to fabricate new seat brackets. I am currently thinking of using a 2" x 3/16 flat bar and drilling it to extend the existing mounting brackets foreward several inches giving me multiple mounting points.

DF does sell seat brackets for the Corbeau seats that put the entire seat forward a bit more. They have the same design as the standard ones but are for shorter folks. I'm 5'8" and was driving with my big toe for awhile before I swapped them out.

 

[pisco]

Bit of a setback last night
I got the prototype seat brackets fabricated, painted, and installed then decided to address the brake reservoir leak (drip).
It seems to be coming from the seals between the reservoir and relocation block. I drained fluid into a bucket sitting under, tucked the hoses into the bucket on the battery and was unbolting the reservoir from the pedal bracket when I bumped the hoses knocking the bucket over spraying all over the interior of the car! paint peeling everywhere, soaked the BCM, tail lights turned on so I pulled it apart and sprayed it down with contact cleaner.
Now I'm thinking of upgrading to the epdm and doing a proportioning valve while I'm messing with it.

Any solid advice?
It hurts how close I am to driving this thing, I have a tune to flash and data log for adjustments with zzp, Once I get the brakes and clutch in order I just need to braze in the wideband bung, build a mount for the afr gauge, bolt in belts and seats (prepped and ready) then throw wheels on and align.

 

[Rttoys]

Water kills the brake fluid, so make sure and hose everything down. The bcm will be tricky though. Electrical cleaner could be best there.

always do the prop valve. It is the single best upgrade to the goblin.

 

[pisco]

Prop valve , flare tool ordered. I'll buy line and fittings locally when all that shows up.
today running to tractor supply for epdm hose for res to master cylinders, brake fluid, and trans fluid.
What is the puck on the clutch master cylinder line and is it necessary? I don't have much experience with hydraulic clutch systems at all, every manual I've ever owned was serviced at a shop.
Left on my list is a garage alignment, flash the ECM, Park brake, Headlight wiring, Mirrors, Find and fix reservoir leak, Bleed hydraulic systems.
I may be able to test drive by the end of the week but it doesn't look like I'll make my goal of picking up kids from last day of school.
I also can't find the title to the donor car and I believe the DMV requires it in my state for "assembled vehicles". I will have to see if I can get another issued however it was never transferred to my name so that may be an issue.

 

[Rauq]

What is the puck on the clutch master cylinder line and is it necessary?

Are you referring to a part on this diagram? I know factory F23 hydraulics have something that I'd be inclined to call a puck but as far as I could tell browsing your build thread you haven't swapped from the original F35 transmission your '09 donor should have had.

 

[pisco]

Are you referring to a part on this diagram? I know factory F23 hydraulics have something that I'd be inclined to call a puck but as far as I could tell browsing your build thread you haven't swapped from the original F35 transmission your '09 donor should have had.
View attachment 52191

yeah it isn't in the diagrams for the F35 but it was there attached at the master cylinder part number FM27001F
not sure its purpose, loosely translated from the german listing for opel vectra parts they called it a vent. not sure thats a solid translation though
Is it good, bad or useless?


EDIT:

This came off my donor.

 

[ah.b.normal]

yeah it isn't in the diagrams for the F35 but it was there attached at the master cylinder part number FM27001F
not sure its purpose, loosely translated from the german listing for opel vectra parts they called it a vent. not sure thats a solid translation though
Is it good, bad or useless?

Well, the F35 system doesn't show it or use it.(even though Rauq's image is from an HHR) I would be inclined to leave it off of F35 installations. I've only seen it on F23 systems at either end of the pressure hose. (I cannot say about the F40 systems, I have not seen many of those.) I know it fits all the connections in both systems. Maybe it is a N/V/H part that made the system "quieter"? "Vent" might equal "silencer"?

 

[Rauq]

In any case, as far as the high pressure side of clutch hydraulics goes, a DFKC supplied hardline runs from the clutch master to the elbow on top of the transmission. That accumulator or whatever it is doesn't get reused.

There's another hardline inside the transmission from the elbow to the slave cylinder, but that's Cobalt original and gets reused. There's also a hose that gets fabbed from kit parts that goes from the fluid reservoir to the clutch master.

 

[pisco]

In any case, as far as the high pressure side of clutch hydraulics goes, a DFKC supplied hardline runs from the clutch master to the elbow on top of the transmission. That accumulator or whatever it is doesn't get reused.

There's another hardline inside the transmission from the elbow to the slave cylinder, but that's Cobalt original and gets reused. There's also a hose that gets fabbed from kit parts that goes from the fluid reservoir to the clutch master.

That's how I had it hooked up and was not successful in getting any clutch line pressure at all, That part is referred to as an air separator so I was wondering if it helps bleed the system somehow. I will chuck it in the bucket and move on to another problem.
I do appreciate the input from the more experienced

 

[Gtstorey]

How did you end up with a clutch master cylinder from an Opel instead of a Cobalt?

 

[Rauq]

I should say, I don't remember my donor ('06 SS/SC) having that piece, and I have not run one on my Goblin. Obviously I didn't run one of those "pucks" with the original F35 transmission, because I don't remember having one.

I did have one in my hand when I ordered a new F23 clutch hydraulic hose after my transmission swap, and I didn't install the part then either.

I would guess that's either pulse damper or a flow restrictor than an air separator. I can't imagine how an air separator would work on a pressurized hydraulic hose, at least not an automotive application with no vent or drain on it.

 

[pisco]

I should say, I don't remember my donor ('06 SS/SC) having that piece, and I have not run one on my Goblin. Obviously I didn't run one of those "pucks" with the original F35 transmission, because I don't remember having one.

I did have one in my hand when I ordered a new F23 clutch hydraulic hose after my transmission swap, and I didn't install the part then either.

I would guess that's either pulse damper or a flow restrictor than an air separator. I can't imagine how an air separator would work on a pressurized hydraulic hose, at least not an automotive application with no vent or drain on it.

I agree, however it does appear to have a threaded insert I'll try to disassemble tonight for science

 

[pisco]

I agree, however it does appear to have a threaded insert I'll try to disassemble tonight for science

the square passage at the bottom is open to the clutch line and allows hydraulic pressure in, the white circle on the cap is a spring pressing the metal disc against the hydraulic pressure, the metal disc has a rubber seal around the perimeter, it looks to me like high pressure allows the seal to open and vent either air or fluid into the back side of the diaphragm, I cannot tell if its vented to atmosphere or completely sealed

there was a fair amount of gunk under the seal, more than I'd like to see in a hydraulic brake line anyway

 

[pisco]

more of the aftermath of the great brake fluid flood of 2025

current plan is to punt this problem to another day, I will try to get it clean and mask off interior to re shoot it will do solid color on frame and floor pan and will probably silicone the seams to prevent any fluids getting between ever again.

 

[pisco]

mocked up a bracket for the wideband and boost gauge (need to order boost)

 

[Gtstorey]

I would leave it out. If the clutch isn't bleeding out properly, it is likely due to your bleeding technique. These can be difficult to bleed without either a vacuum or pressure bleeder. I prefer pressure bleeding if you have the reservoir to master cylinder hose set up to handle some pressure.

 

[Ark :D]

Having experience with this same brake fluid issue, I can tell you with fair confidence, you're going to end up pulling the floor pan off to thoroughly clean between it and the frame rails. Otherwise, coating will never again stick to the floor pan.

Ask me how I know.

 

[pisco]

Having experience with this same brake fluid issue, I can tell you with fair confidence, you're going to end up pulling the floor pan off to thoroughly clean between it and the frame rails. Otherwise, coating will never again stick to the floor pan.

Ask me how I know.

View attachment 52216

not what I wanted to hear!
thats ok I'll figure it out someday right now I just need to make this thing safe to drive and drive it, pretty can happen later...

 

[pisco]

I would leave it out. If the clutch isn't bleeding out properly, it is likely due to your bleeding technique. These can be difficult to bleed without either a vacuum or pressure bleeder. I prefer pressure bleeding if you have the reservoir to master cylinder hose set up to handle some pressure.

I am using a motive power bleeder, I don't know if I can blame that for the leak between the res and relocation block.
I got fluid all the way to the elbow but never back pressure on the pedal, none at all!
I will get it figured out eventually