V1 r3drckt - extended track - 06 SS/SC G85

[r3drckt]

I will double check everything. The fuse block bolts I snugged pretty good, but will redo them to be sure. Might pull the bottom of the fuse box and press the blocks in from the back side. The grounds I will pull and take a wire brush and file to. I’ll keep you posted, thanks for the help

 

[r3drckt]

Did a Zoom meeting with Ross to double check everything, make sure I’m not crazier than I already am. Unfortunately, we couldn’t make any additional progress. He suggested wiring up the headlights as they may hinder a start (although my issue isn’t starting, just data getting to the OBDII port) but at this point I’m willing to try anything. However, that still didn’t resolve my issue. Although I can attest that the dominator headlights are enough to make you see spots for a short period after staring into them on (whoops). At least I know my running, low and high beams all work!

Next up is to wire in the button panel and see if I can get the info/return to scroll and check for other messages on the dash (only low fuel and low coolant showing currently). @Lonny if you have any suggestions, I’d be eternally grateful!

 

[SmsDetroit]

I started mine long before I wired in any lighting so I don’t think that is an issue. It really does sound like your tan data wires are possible crossed somewhere

 

[Lonny]

Update us on all of the latest symptoms.
What works and doesn't work?
What messages are showing on the cluster.
Do you have every connector plugged in?
Start at one end of your harness and take pics of each connector where it is plugged in so we can see if something is missing.

 

[r3drckt]

I’m at a literal loss with this harness haha. Literally EVERYTHING works except the OBDII port won’t allow a Bluetooth scanner or HPT to connect for data. I still have to take the pictures and everything that Lonny requested, but I only have 3-5 loose connections, everything else is connected and functioning as designed. I’ll have about 30+ photos coming throughout multiple posts, but I will leave my jumping Horn (which my button panel has a toggle switch, not a momentary switch for the horn).

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[Brian74]

Are you sure the bluetooth scanner is working properly? Also have you checked for proper power & ground on the diagnostic connector? Are you running anything else on the bus (aeroforce gauges, ect.?)

Also go through all of the grounds using a grounding point wiring diagram (highlight and identify the ones still on your harness.) Grounds are the most commonly overlooked issue.

You’ve already confirmed proper CAN bus termination. Some people mentioned the datawires possibly being crossed. Unplug the ECM and power steering module and check for continuity from tan to tan and tan/black to tan/black between the EPS connector and the ECM connector.

 

[ToxicBill]

See if this helps.

Bill's Street/Track Goblin - 2007 SS/SC - Chassis #204

It bolts down to your subframe, and holds your rear wheels straight.

dfkitcar.com

 

[r3drckt]

Bill... I freaking love you! Continuity on pins 1 and 2 at the OBDII port. I did exactly what you did. It’s 11pm here so I’ll trace that wire and then extend it to the PCM C1 Pin 16 tomorrow and see if that fixes it.

 

[r3drckt]

Are you sure the bluetooth scanner is working properly? Also have you checked for proper power & ground on the diagnostic connector? Are you running anything else on the bus (aeroforce gauges, ect.?)

Also go through all of the grounds using a grounding point wiring diagram (highlight and identify the ones still on your harness.) Grounds are the most commonly overlooked issue.

You’ve already confirmed proper CAN bus termination. Some people mentioned the datawires possibly being crossed. Unplug the ECM and power steering module and check for continuity from tan to tan and tan/black to tan/black between the EPS connector and the ECM connector.

Verified continuity between all the pins per Ross’ post and verified the OBDII reader is still working by connecting it to my 2019 X3 and 2020 Sierra, it also worked before tearing down the donor. Verified all of the grounds as well, removed them and hit every one with a wire brush and they’re all polished now, including the plate they are connected to. Haven’t connected any new devices to the OBD port either (one day I will add a wide-band for tuning the turbo swap. Verified the power and ground at the OBD port while on zoom with Ross.

I wired up my button panel, head lights, side mirrors and everything is functioning as normal. See the attached video for demonstration. I’m hopeful that ToxicBill solved my issue since I have continuity on pins 1/2 at the OBD port. I’m going to extend pin 2 at the OBD to C1 pin 16 at the pcm tomorrow and fingers crossed that solves my issue.

 

[ToxicBill]

Bill... I freaking love you! Continuity on pins 1 and 2 at the OBDII port. I did exactly what you did. It’s 11pm here so I’ll trace that wire and then extend it to the PCM C1 Pin 16 tomorrow and see if that fixes it.

I hope that's the source of your issue. I have no idea how/why I did that but I'm just glad I found it.

 

[r3drckt]

I’m going to guess you assumed what I did and that the wires were the same color and the videos say the low speed GMLAN wires all get soldered together so we didn’t think twice haha. This class 2 serial data wire is only on the LSJ, and the new harness videos are based on the LNF.

 

[r3drckt]

My OBD issue has been cured! Thanks again everyone for the assistance and @ToxicBill with the solution! OBD reader connected and produced the attached codes. Next up is to see if HPT will connect.

 

[r3drckt]

HPT connected and read my PCM. Pulled the .hpt file and emailed it to Al at ZZP for the initial turbo swap tune. Got the garage cleaned up and will start the engine tear down hopefully this week or next.

 

[r3drckt]

Listing the codes for future reference:

B3950-05: Left rear turn signal circuit
B3951-05: Right rear turn signal circuit
U2108: Lost communications with ABS/TCS Control System EBCM
U2113: Lost communications with sensing diagnostic module (SDM) BCM
U2172: Lost Communications with Digital Radio Receiver (DRR) BCM

- Rear turn signals weren't wired up so those "B" designated codes are expected.
- EBCM is the Electronic Brake Controller, cut out during wire harness rework.
- SDM is the airbags modules, cut out during wire harness rework.
- DRR is XM Satellite module, cut out during wire harness rework.

I'm surprised I didn't get a code for the EVAP system being removed. Thought I saw others having a DTC for that system since it was cut out as well.

 

[r3drckt]

Finally got time to pull the trans and found some horrible information out about my donor. The Carfax was clean when I ran it before purchase car drove and seemed like it only had a slipping clutch. No biggy I thought. Well, pulled the trans and found this mess...

Again, carfax is clean on it, but this looks like the car was a flood vehicle. Would make sense why the carpet had a mildew smell to it. My guess is the car wasn’t claimed under insurance when it happened and instead the car was traded in to a dealer and then sent to auction. I won’t know the full extent of the damage until I pull the drain plug on the trans to see if water was in there as well. What came out when I pulled the axles looked fine, but we’ll see. The engine oil hasn’t been drained yet so I don’t know if water got in there either.

I thought something was up when I found only 5 bolts holding the trans on ( top 2 were missing) and the one closest to the thermostat housing was only finger tight.

I might be in the market for another donor...

 

[Rttoys]

Ugh. That sucks. See what the fluid looks like and go from there.

clutch, flywheel and might as well do the slave cylinder while you are there.

 

[r3drckt]

Ya I have all new clutch assembly and lightweight flywheel ready to go on, but that was after the engine rebuild (didn’t need it, but wanted to do that with the turbo swap). Praying fluids look good and the block itself wasn’t compromised.

 

[Rttoys]

With the trans being fairly well sealed, hopefully it’s just outside damage.

 

[r3drckt]

That’s my hope as well. I’m more worried about the inside of the block than the exterior of either. If it’s inside, then the block is toast as removal of any material where tolerances matter makes for a useless block.

 

[SmsDetroit]

If it ran okay before it should be fine. The water would have to be about the intake to be able to get into the engine