V1 Riley's Full Cage Goblin -07 SS/TC F23 #457

[newbtrying]

Still waiting on the F23 slave to ship…. RIP.

Used a few minutes to address another issue: the angle of the tee that I have the oil cooler coolant hose spliced into kinked the 90 off over time. I ordered a new silicone 90 and cut it to fit better so that it wouldn’t kink. Easy and straightforward install. Here’s a before and after:

 

[Robinjo]

What did you do for a dual pod mount?

I used the file from the 3D print repository and send it to Craft Cloud to print. It wasn't expensive, like $40 or so.

V1 - Custom STL Files for 3D Printed Goblin Parts

Good Morning! Got a link to this thread from my introduction post and thought I would come say Hello! If you own a Creality machine or watch Teaching Tech on YouTube you have probably seen my product reviews from him. PrinterMods I have seen a few things I will respond to in the thread. If...

dfkitcar.com

CraftCloud
Craftcloud® | The Streamlined 3D Printing Service

 

[newbtrying]

The f23 slave cylinder came in today. I got it installed and measured the air gap… it’s 0.5” which is unfortunate. This means I need the 0.25” spacer from ZZP. I ordered this just minutes ago and will need to wait on shipping, hopefully it arrives mid next week.

At least this explains why my first slave cylinder overextended. In retrospect, I really think I could have gotten away with the f35 slave on the f23 transmission if the air gap had been within spec. Now I’ll never know

 

[newbtrying]

Got the heat exchanger lines connected and filled up with coolant.

Just riveted the tunnel cap on and am now looking to install the shifter and linkage.

Question that came up: do I cut off the u-shaped bracket from the shifter at the seam in front of the front mounting bolts? I feel like I saw somewhere that this is what you do, but after some searching, I can’t find anything on it again.

 

[Rttoys]

Yes

 

[newbtrying]

Yes
View attachment 55592

ooh great pic. thanks

 

[newbtrying]

Working on getting the shifter/linkage installed still, but I ran into a couple issues:

1) my kit didn’t have the polymer spacers for the shifter mounting. -can someone give me a height measurement of these so I can throw some temporary wooden ones in? I think I’ll have the car ready to drive before the polymer ones arrive in the mail.
2) I have 2 small washers and 2 aluminum sleeves that I have no idea the purpose of… any pointers for those?

 

[Robinjo]

You need to find more of these or upgrade to the ZZP/OTTP end links. These factor GM plastic ones will break. Mine made it a couple weeks before giving up. You might make it further, some have. Best bet would be to just upgrade to the DF shifter.

 

[newbtrying]

You need to find more of these or upgrade to the ZZP/OTTP end links. These factor GM plastic ones will break. Mine made it a couple weeks before giving up. You might make it further, some have. Best bet would be to just upgrade to the DF shifter.

View attachment 55611

does the DF Shifter just bolt in in place of this one? Or does my tunnel need modified?

 

[Rttoys]

does the DF Shifter just bolt in in place of this one? Or does my tunnel need modified?

the DF shifter comes with a new 3 piece tunnel cap.

 

[newbtrying]

As always, an update and some questions:

I got the ZZP 0.25” spacer on the TOB installed. Now my air gap is 0.25” which is still slightly out of spec (0.15” to 0.20” according to ZZP air gap vid), but in their vid they said 1/4” air gap would be ok…. So I’m banking on that

to pull the seal from the TOB, I had to file away a crimp, then slip a screwdriver under the seal and was able to pop it out. Then just transferred it to the space and installed both, easy peasy.

now…. The lower clutch pipe (and the bleeder elbow I actually need) come in the mail Friday…. I’m debating on installing the transmission now, or waiting till Friday, mainly because of how the spacer pulled the clutch pipe connector further into the bell housing, so I don’t have access to the retaining clip once the trans is installed. It appears to me that I can install the elbow without messing with the clip, in a push-lock type fashion, but I can’t remove it without messing with the clip. Is this correct? Can I bolt everything up and then install the bleeder elbow by just pushing it into the trans side connection?

also… seatbelts. I have Corbeau seats and harnesses. The seats came with some bolts for attaching the lap belts and the crotch belt, but I’ll need to grab some nuts and washers to make this happen. My biggest question is: what is the thread pitch/length on the tunnel attachment point for the belt? I need to grab two bolts for these, since the bolts that came with the seats and harness appear to be the wrong thread pitch.

 

[Rttoys]

Working on getting the shifter/linkage installed still, but I ran into a couple issues:

1) my kit didn’t have the polymer spacers for the shifter mounting. -can someone give me a height measurement of these so I can throw some temporary wooden ones in? I think I’ll have the car ready to drive before the polymer ones arrive in the mail.
2) I have 2 small washers and 2 aluminum sleeves that I have no idea the purpose of… any pointers for those?

1- see pics

2- not sure

 

[Robinjo]

Trans: I would just wait until the part comes in. It's safer that way.

Loogle says the seat belt bolt is a M12x1.25x28 for Cobalts. Other posts say 7/16-20 .

 

[Rttoys]

1- I’d wait till all the parts come in.

2- those seat belt bolts on the center tower are 7/16-20

V1 - Seat belt bolts

I'm sorry, but I give up. What size and pitch are the NUTS welded into the frame tunnel? I've tried most everything, and I don't want to clean the threads with the wrong tap. Thanks in advance.

dfkitcar.com

 

[Rauq]

What are the chances you think you have the wrong seat belt bolts because there's powdercoat in the threads? I haven't looked back to verify, but @Rttoys spec above sounds right to me. Worth noting there's a specific need for these to be shoulder bolts of a specific diameter, as I recall, and I recall that because they were supposed to come from Corbeau with the harnesses and mine didn't and DFKC had to poke Corbeau to get them sent out to me.

 

[newbtrying]

1- see pics

2- not sure
View attachment 55619View attachment 55620View attachment 55621

to address point two "not sure", I decided these aluminum sleeves belonged inside the plastic end links. the threaded push rods fit nicely through the middle of them. so that bushing is installed sandwiched inside the end link between the two nuts and washers that hold the pushrod.

Also, thanks a bunch for those measurements.

 

[newbtrying]

What are the chances you think you have the wrong seat belt bolts because there's powdercoat in the threads? I haven't looked back to verify, but @Rttoys spec above sounds right to me. Worth noting there's a specific need for these to be shoulder bolts of a specific diameter, as I recall, and I recall that because they were supposed to come from Corbeau with the harnesses and mine didn't and DFKC had to poke Corbeau to get them sent out to me.

What this means to me is that I should reach out to Adam about this via email, and I'll likely have to have some shorter shoulder bolts sent out for this tunnel connection?

I'm half tempted to just go buy a short 7/16-20 bolt, washer, and lock washer and install it that way. I don't really understand how a small amount of play between the harness attachment around the bolt would make it any less secure or safe.

Here's my solution i guess: I'll email Adam, and in the meantime likely run a regular bolt until this shoulder bolt thing from Corbeau is sorted.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Are you using the spacer plate between the engine and transmission? This will change the air gap by about 0.100 inch if it is used or not.

 

[newbtrying]

Are you using the spacer plate between the engine and transmission? This will change the air gap by about 0.100 inch if it is used or not.

Yes. I eyeballed the thickness of the bellhousing spacer at about 0.125" with a tape measure. AKA I did not measure with calipers like i should have.=

A few thoughts: 1) If 0.125" thick and i remove it, I'm at 0.125" airgap which is under spec. 2) If 0.100" thick, i'm at 0.150" air gap which is within spec. This leaves me with the question: Can i remove this bellhousing spacer and reinstall the trans? Will that cause me any problems other than changing the air gap measurement? - I emailed ZZP earlier with this exact question and I'm unsure if they'll respond... but I'd like to know the answer.

*EDIT* The bellhousing spacer measures 0.119" Which would put me out of spec if i removed it. I think I'd rather run the 0.25" air gap that I currently have with the TOB spacer. As the clutch wears, this air gap will decrease anyway, from my understanding.

 

[Ross]

My spacer is 0.117 of an inch thick.