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V1 Riley's Full Cage Goblin -07 SS/TC F23 #457

Rauq
This has been posted elsewhere previously, but make sure the seal piece is on top of the clutch pipe before you install the elbow. If the seal piece is inside the elbow when you go to put it on the clutch pipe, it won't seal. Also make sure if you have any new clutch hydraulic parts in the mix that you only have one seal piece. The seal piece likes to stay inside the elbow when you pull it off so it may not be obvious if it's double gasketed. (also don't install the clip before installing the clutch elbow, obv)

55507
 
comegetjoe
Rauq said:
This has been posted elsewhere previously, but make sure the seal piece is on top of the clutch pipe before you install the elbow. If the seal piece is inside the elbow when you go to put it on the clutch pipe, it won't seal. Also make sure if you have any new clutch hydraulic parts in the mix that you only have one seal piece. The seal piece likes to stay inside the elbow when you pull it off so it may not be obvious if it's double gasketed. (also don't install the clip before installing the clutch elbow, obv)

View attachment 55507
Click to expand...

This.

Clean the inside of the bell housing gently with brakekleen, allow to drip/dry etc and then do what Rauq said with the nipple. Try it. You may not have to pull everything.

I know this because I had this EXACT scenario happen to me. I pulled the engine and trans only to find my throwout bearing was 100% fine and it was not sealed on top. It was running down the inside of my bellhousing from the elbow.

dfkitcar.com

V1 - Joe's 2009 F40 SS/TC #470

Is the steering rack limiter mandatory? I'm using factory size tires and wheels and all I've done is move the car in the yard and my control arm powder coating has deep rub marks on it. Kinda hard to miss on my color. I ordered the limiter kit and never installed it. I run 1" adapter plates and...
dfkitcar.com dfkitcar.com
 
newbtrying
Thanks guys, i'm taking a mental break from the wrench turning while i read up on tips like this for today. I'm going to make my trip to Ace and buy some new grade 10.9 bolts (for rear strut to knuckle connection) like i mentioned before and I'll rent a borescope from the neighboring O'Reilly's so i can just take a good peep inside too.

- side note, Now that I have the axles in, i noticed I can spin the wheels by hand while the transmission is in gear while both tires turn the same direction... this causes a bit of concern too. I feel like the clutch should be engaged and I'd have to rotate the engine while the trans is in gear and i rotate a tire, even if one isn't on the ground. This is another reason i want to look inside with the borescope.
 
newbtrying
Rauq said:
This has been posted elsewhere previously, but make sure the seal piece is on top of the clutch pipe before you install the elbow. If the seal piece is inside the elbow when you go to put it on the clutch pipe, it won't seal. Also make sure if you have any new clutch hydraulic parts in the mix that you only have one seal piece. The seal piece likes to stay inside the elbow when you pull it off so it may not be obvious if it's double gasketed. (also don't install the clip before installing the clutch elbow, obv)

View attachment 55507
Click to expand...
Ok i lied to myself, it's easy enough to see if this was the culprit, so i went and checked. I wrapped a white paper towel around the base of the pipe pictured (between is connection and the slave side) and pressed the clutch a few times while watching for fluid to drip out of the bell housing. It dripped and i checked and can confirm this location was not the source of the leak. This is ruled out.

The leak is closer to the slave.
 
newbtrying
I grabbed a bore scope and peeped. Unfortunately, I think I confirmed I have to remove the transmission. Luckily, I think I glanced a post about how to remove the Trans without dropping the engine with it.

I did the F23 swap about 3 years ago, and past me left the F35 slave in the F23 transmission, which I think isn't ideal. I'm pretty sure i need the F23 slave in there even though i left the F35 clutch and flywheel in. Also, I never bothered/knew to check the air gap, so I should probably check that anyway this time around.

55510

I watched the TOB while depressing the clutch and it didn’t even try to depress those fingers. The leak is too big to build the force to do anything.

The borescope photos confirmed a MAJOR leak, dripping off the bottom of the slave. I'm assuming this is from the clutch pipe to slave connection since I can't see that directly. naturally, I've got to get in there to even stop that leak anyway.
55508

right by that bolt on the slave you can see brake fluid that is forming droplets and dripping.
 
newbtrying
Transmission is off. I’ll troubleshoot the slave tomorrow.

55531


in order to feel like I didn’t completely backtrack today, I hooked up the heat exchanger to the PVC tunnel tubes. I used the S shaped hose from the kit and cut it in the middle, making two 90s

55532
 
newbtrying
I pulled the master cylinder today. It is overextended, hence the leak. I ordered a LUK replacement (OE manufacturer I believe) for the 2005-2010 2.2/2.4 cobalt, which should be what I need this time. The prior slave was not the correct matchup for the F23 trans I currently have and was from the old F35 trans I had. Live and learn i guess.

Thanks to all the other reports of the black rubber seal on the end of the pipe staying in the bleed junction of the clutch pipe. I noticed when I disconnected the old slave, that seal stayed stuck in the joint and I had to remove it. That would have been a bummer to have ended up with another leak from that.
 
newbtrying
Desert Sasqwatch said:
Perform the air gap measurement just to be safe - highly recommended since you're still using the F35 clutch set(?).
Click to expand...

I definitely will. I don't want to be in this position again.
Rauq posted in the F35-F23 thread that he is using the F23 trans, F23 slave, F35 bellhouse spacer, clutch and PP with LSJ ZZP aluminum flywheel, here. This will basically be the exact same as what i'm running once I get this new slave.
 
newbtrying
I’m going to knock some of the small things out while I wait on the slave cylinder. Just wired up the button panel. I noticed in the video on DF Kit car, they had the buttons flipped for horn and hazards for passenger and driver side, but the wire color was correct based on the markings I left on the pigtails on the harness side. No biggy.

55535
 
newbtrying
Mounted the dominator headlights. Straightforward enough.

Mounted the mirrors. Also easy. I think i'll take a cutoff wheel and shorten the mirror mounting bolts a bit, though. They stick out about an inch past the nut!

55536


With those two items checked off the list, I have new questions:

1) Does anyone know what kinds of connectors are on the mirrors/headlights/brake lights that come from DF? I'd like to just buy the appropriate ones and get them attached to the harness side.
2) I see that some people have the 3 OR 4 wires from the harness going to the headlights. The extra, I've learned, is for the parking lights. I do not have the 4th wire pulled in the harness, so should I just ignore the brown wire on the headlights? (see pic) *EDIT* -found the black wire. it's just shorter than the others. you can barely see it sticking out from the harness pigtail in the pic. I have 4 wires at each headlight pigtail from the harness.
3) continuation of question 2: Since I don't have parking light wiring pulled, is there any reason I would need to do so? If so, How does a guy go about that?
4) Does anyone have a mounting solution for a single boost gauge (the factory gauge from an -07 SS)?

55537


55538


55539



Once I get the engine and trans back in, I'll mount the brake lights and do some wire management around the car.
 
Last edited:
Rttoys
Brown wire is park lights, if I remember correctly. The mirrors have park lights and i used them on the headlights I made. Depending on your state regulations, you may or may not need them
IMG_4266.png
 
Robinjo
I have the single stock DF boost gage mount just sitting in my box at home. It's already a red color, pretty close to yours. You can have it for shipping cost. DM me with details if you are interested.
I went with a dual pod to hold my AFR and Boost gage, so do not need it.
 
newbtrying
Robinjo said:
I have the single stock DF boost gage mount just sitting in my box at home. It's already a red color, pretty close to yours. You can have it for shipping cost. DM me with details if you are interested.
I went with a dual pod to hold my AFR and Boost gage, so do not need it.
Click to expand...

I have been toying in my head with the idea of doing what you just mentioned. What did you do for a dual pod mount?

Also, is there any real value to having an AFR gauge? I see a number of people here have mounted them. I only ask because I'm ignorant.
 
Ross
newbtrying said:
I have been toying in my head with the idea of doing what you just mentioned. What did you do for a dual pod mount?

Also, is there any real value to having an AFR gauge? I see a number of people here have mounted them. I only ask because I'm ignorant.
Click to expand...
If you are doing custom engine tuning, the wideband O2 sensor is used to adjust the AFR in the ECU software tables. The AFR gauge just tells you if your engine is running rich, lean, or perfectly stoichiometric.
 
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