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V1 Robinjo #405 Full Cage - 2006 SS/SC Build "Drago"
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Not a whole lot has been done but a lot is going on.
Ordered new polycarbonate and cut my own windscreen. It was easy enough except I learned that I needed to pad my sawhorses as it scratched the polycarbonate a little. Over all, nothing major that I can't deal with for a bit. I did extend the windscreen higher by about 1.5" and I like this, so my next screen will be this height. My previous screen was the DF Extended version.
I also go my hands on a LSD 3.82 FD transmission, my current one is a 3.82 non-LSD. I've been working on that the past couple weekends. It would have been done already but I messed up either the TOB F35 clutch pipe or silver hydraulic clutch elbow (with bleeder) as when I pressurized the hydraulic system after getting the engine back in the 'bay' it was pouring fluid. I think it was stupid F35 clutch clips in the clutch elbow, but i replaced both parts. Also, while doing that I elected to pickup a ZZP lightweight flywheel. I was planning to go into the trans at some point to do this and since I was ordering stuff I got it now. The transmission is back on the engine, the engine is back in the bay and has held 15 psi overnight. That part is fixed so now it's just putting it all back together. I've written down a checklist of items (with torques), so once I'm done I'll post my checklist and order for future assemblies.
Things to Do:
Ordered new polycarbonate and cut my own windscreen. It was easy enough except I learned that I needed to pad my sawhorses as it scratched the polycarbonate a little. Over all, nothing major that I can't deal with for a bit. I did extend the windscreen higher by about 1.5" and I like this, so my next screen will be this height. My previous screen was the DF Extended version.
I also go my hands on a LSD 3.82 FD transmission, my current one is a 3.82 non-LSD. I've been working on that the past couple weekends. It would have been done already but I messed up either the TOB F35 clutch pipe or silver hydraulic clutch elbow (with bleeder) as when I pressurized the hydraulic system after getting the engine back in the 'bay' it was pouring fluid. I think it was stupid F35 clutch clips in the clutch elbow, but i replaced both parts. Also, while doing that I elected to pickup a ZZP lightweight flywheel. I was planning to go into the trans at some point to do this and since I was ordering stuff I got it now. The transmission is back on the engine, the engine is back in the bay and has held 15 psi overnight. That part is fixed so now it's just putting it all back together. I've written down a checklist of items (with torques), so once I'm done I'll post my checklist and order for future assemblies.
Things to Do:
- Learn to Tune w/ HP Tuner - Installed and downloaded base file
- Connect the Wideband to HP Tuner
- MIL Light on with no codes (stored or pending)
- Make shifter brace
- Lost Cruise Control --> Still intermittent.
New Windscreen- Harness Bar
- Replace side mirror -->
- Make roof --> Template made
- Install LSD Trans --> In progress
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Josh's09 Well-Known Member
Day 38 9/03/2022
Hours Worked: 2.5
Total Hours: 106
(Assembly Hours: 47.5)
Tonight we installed the rear brakes and e-brake cables. The brakes are a little tricky the first time you install them, I had to watcha few videos on them just to get the pad orientation right. Methodology: First, install the black bracket that holds the brake assembly. You won't be able to get it into place with the rotors in the way. I then installed the rotor and affixed it with two lug nuts, just to keep it from flopping around as much. Next, you want to bolt in the caliper bracket and install the pads. Keep in mind, the one with the spring on the top of the pad goes to the inside (reverse of my photo). Now you can install the actual caliper, the slide studs come off with an Allen wrench. Last step is to install the braided hose and install your clip. I could only get the clip to go in over the hole/mount. After that we installed the e-brake cables. They attach easily, just route them what ever way works best. I attached the cables to the handle, then worked back to the caliper. To get the connector into the caliper, you have to work the e-brake lever on the caliper. We went to bleed the brakes/clutch and found out the Motive Unit doesn't come with caps. So, order a GM cap when you order the unit. I just assumed it came with various caps, but never checked the box until we needed to use it.
Brakes - Note: So much trouble with pad orientation!
View attachment 35519View attachment 35520View attachment 35521
Rear Brake Caliper Install
Hi All, Trying to get the rear brakes installed and could use some pictures for an 09 TC car in many angles. Also could use help on which bolts to use. There are 8 in the kit with 4 washers but not sure where everything goes. I have scoured the forum and google and still don't have what I am...dfkitcar.com
E-Brake - Note: I'm going to order new cables. Mine are a little rusty and I'd like to route them over the control arm.
No photos.
Parking brake cable route
Is it the builders option or is there a correct way to route the parking brake cable around the rear A-arm? Above the A-arm and below the axle or below the A-arm?
Issues to deal with:
Coolant Pump Issue - On it's way, arrives 9/08
Motive Top Cap - Ordered, arrives 9/07
Hey! first off, great job so far, (just started reading through your build log) but I did have one question when it came to brake pad orientation.
You said the pad with the spring goes to the inside (opposite of your photo) and I was wondering, did you figure this out because it wouldn't work for you the way it's pictured? Or did you reach out for help and someone told you the correct orientation? I seem to have installed mine on the outside and they fit just fine. So I am curious on where/how you came to that conclusion.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Now that I've had the LSD trans for a little bit I'm posting my thoughts on it. First off, worth it in my opinion. I'm not sure if I'd pay $1500 for a high mileage unit. My LSD trans has a worn 2nd gear synchro so I've only launched it hard once or twice.
Acceleration. it is a lot more stable on launch and then coming off power at 80-100 mph (I'm a professional driver on a closed course. please obey all traffic laws). On the open differential, sometimes the rear end would try to come around if applying power to quickly, that seems to be gone. Putting spacers on the rear to widen the track and make the rear tires sit wider than the fronts helped this as well, but this made a big difference as well.
Twisties, this is a huge improvement as well. The rear just seems much more stable and am more confident in the turns. With the open diff I had to be mindful of how much the rear was pushing out. Now, that level of worry has been lessened. It never completely goes away in these things, but it's much better. The limit of how much you can turn in has raised dramatically.
Rear end stepping out control, this is much more controllable and predictable. If/when you want to be silly it's easy to predict how much and what it'll do.
Acceleration. it is a lot more stable on launch and then coming off power at 80-100 mph (I'm a professional driver on a closed course. please obey all traffic laws). On the open differential, sometimes the rear end would try to come around if applying power to quickly, that seems to be gone. Putting spacers on the rear to widen the track and make the rear tires sit wider than the fronts helped this as well, but this made a big difference as well.
Twisties, this is a huge improvement as well. The rear just seems much more stable and am more confident in the turns. With the open diff I had to be mindful of how much the rear was pushing out. Now, that level of worry has been lessened. It never completely goes away in these things, but it's much better. The limit of how much you can turn in has raised dramatically.
Rear end stepping out control, this is much more controllable and predictable. If/when you want to be silly it's easy to predict how much and what it'll do.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
...if that strut suspension was more tunable for better geometry...
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
Made a couple 'floor mats' with some left over Paw Patrol playmat material that my kids weren't using this weekend. It works pretty well, had to use some double sided tape to keep them in place but it works well. I have more of it if anyone wants me to cut them some, but it was really easy to do. I just made a template out of cardboard and got it close to what I wanted and used it to cut the foam mat material. It wasn't the
Swapped out my fuse box and swapped out the C4 plug. I had broken one of the 7mm shank bolts and thought it was keeping my C4 bolted to the fuse block but it was not. This seemed to fix my intermittent Cruise Control issue as well. It's worked consistently since swapping out the box and plug.
We went to a Street Shutdown Friday night that was being hosted by the Octane Power group to kick off for a huge car show Saturday that was help at the local Civic Center. The city blocked off a good mile of street and cars were lined on both sides and down the middle turn lane of the area. It was interesting to see some of the cars, some very unique vehicles. Drago was a huge hit there.
Floor Mats
Instagram Sticker #GoblinDrago
Things to Do:
Swapped out my fuse box and swapped out the C4 plug. I had broken one of the 7mm shank bolts and thought it was keeping my C4 bolted to the fuse block but it was not. This seemed to fix my intermittent Cruise Control issue as well. It's worked consistently since swapping out the box and plug.
We went to a Street Shutdown Friday night that was being hosted by the Octane Power group to kick off for a huge car show Saturday that was help at the local Civic Center. The city blocked off a good mile of street and cars were lined on both sides and down the middle turn lane of the area. It was interesting to see some of the cars, some very unique vehicles. Drago was a huge hit there.
Floor Mats
Instagram Sticker #GoblinDrago
Things to Do:
- Connect the Wideband to HP Tuner
- MIL Light on with no codes (stored or pending)
- Make shifter brace
- Harness Bar
- Make roof --> Template made, tinted polycarb ordered
Instagram Sticker
Bleed brakesFix P2138 code (again)- Alignment
Fusebox/C4 PlugFloor mats- BCM Reset?
Boost Gauge- Gauge Holder
- BCM
- Bar Covers
- Check Torques
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Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
8/25/2023
Swapped out my stock BCM with the spare unit I sent out for mileage reset. Easy process overall except getting the BCM out of the car. ODO-Pros got it done quickly, about a week from door to them and back. Tip: flip the long bolts to the BCM so the threaded end is in the cabin. Then use a locknuts to pin the spacers in place. Now, install the BCM with washers and another locknut. Now when you inevitably have to pull your BCM it’s just a few 11mm nuts.
www.odo-pro.com
[email protected]
Swapped out my stock BCM with the spare unit I sent out for mileage reset. Easy process overall except getting the BCM out of the car. ODO-Pros got it done quickly, about a week from door to them and back. Tip: flip the long bolts to the BCM so the threaded end is in the cabin. Then use a locknuts to pin the spacers in place. Now, install the BCM with washers and another locknut. Now when you inevitably have to pull your BCM it’s just a few 11mm nuts.
www.odo-pro.com
[email protected]
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Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
8/26/2023 - Tranny Day
Pulled the engine to replace the 2nd gear synchro. Pulled the engine in record time, 2.5-2.75 hours. And I goofed off with a couple of things that I probably could have been closer to the 2 hour mark. I think I'm getting decently efficent at the task. I also went back and revised my engine/trans pulling list. The easiest time to remove the starter wires and heat exchanger pump lines from the engine is after dropping the subframe but before dropping the engine. Also, if you plan to put your engine on a roller dolly, pull the bottom two transmission 18mm bolts before dropping the engine to the rollers. I already identified this early on, but just making notes for future engine removal people.
Also scoping out secondary heat exchanger locations in the body. Since I'm getting a unit from @wallace58 might as well run a dual HX setup. More cooling options can't be a bad thing.
Pulled the engine to replace the 2nd gear synchro. Pulled the engine in record time, 2.5-2.75 hours. And I goofed off with a couple of things that I probably could have been closer to the 2 hour mark. I think I'm getting decently efficent at the task. I also went back and revised my engine/trans pulling list. The easiest time to remove the starter wires and heat exchanger pump lines from the engine is after dropping the subframe but before dropping the engine. Also, if you plan to put your engine on a roller dolly, pull the bottom two transmission 18mm bolts before dropping the engine to the rollers. I already identified this early on, but just making notes for future engine removal people.
Also scoping out secondary heat exchanger locations in the body. Since I'm getting a unit from @wallace58 might as well run a dual HX setup. More cooling options can't be a bad thing.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
While the engine is out (again) for my guy to replace the second gear synchro it’s miscellaneous item fixing time. First thing, adding slightly longer bolts around the gear shift mechanisms base. The stock bolts are barely long enough but I’ve never thought it was solid. 15/16-18 x 3.0” bolts. Along with this I’ve measured the length to make a shifter brace.
Next was putting in a recessed bolt on the water pump housing since mine rattles against the frame. The fix was a M6-1.0 in 15 or 20mm length and countersinking the plate. Now it’s flush.
Next was putting in a recessed bolt on the water pump housing since mine rattles against the frame. The fix was a M6-1.0 in 15 or 20mm length and countersinking the plate. Now it’s flush.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
And….. made a shifter brace out of aluminum. Took the extra play out of the group buy shift mechanism. Made out of 1 x 3/16 x 48 inches aluminum bar from the Depots of Homes. Bent using a vise and my hands into place. Nothing fancy but it works. A 15/16-18 locknut holds the brace to the bottom of the stud poking down through the shifter base. To attach the brace to the 1" square tubing under the seat is just a left over self taping screw from my build.
Things to Do:
Things to Do:
- Connect the Wideband to HP Tuner
- MIL Light on with no codes (stored or pending)
Make shifter brace- Harness Bar
- Alignment
- Bar Covers
- Install Trans/Engine --> Synchro replacement going
- Check Torques
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