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V1 Towerdog's Indiana Street Goblin Build (#250) 07 SS/SC Donor

pisco
When you don't like soldeing.... Just kidding. It works great for twisting multiple wires tightly together before soldering.

You joke but years ago I was chasing a short blowing a 50amp main fuse on my 7.3 powerstroke. I pulled the remote starter first and wire nutted the ignition wires back together troubleshooting intending on going back to crimp them. That was 13 years and 250k miles ago. There are still ideal brand wire nuts under my dash.
 
Towerdog
You joke but years ago I was chasing a short blowing a 50amp main fuse on my 7.3 powerstroke. I pulled the remote starter first and wire nutted the ignition wires back together troubleshooting intending on going back to crimp them. That was 13 years and 250k miles ago. There are still ideal brand wire nuts under my dash.
Still beats twist and tape!
 
Towerdog
So here is my thinned out engine harness. As you can see there is a couple of feet of various sizes of wire loom. I had to purchase 50ft of each size of high temp nylon wire loom to do this. If anyone is interested in redoing their engine harness I have a bunch of loom to share.
 

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gearjammer
I had the same issue with the “fuse box ground”. I have the ground lug from the square multi plug...but never found that “fuse box ground” you are supposed to solder to the repurposed ABS ground lug. Still have to get my engine in and see if it starts...
 
Towerdog
I had the same issue with the “fuse box ground”. I have the ground lug from the square multi plug...but never found that “fuse box ground” you are supposed to solder to the repurposed ABS ground lug. Still have to get my engine in and see if it starts...
It is one of the smaller wires that get extended off of the multi plug ground lug. There are four of them, one is the "fuse box ground" the other three are for the tail lights.
 
Lonny
When you are thinning your harnesses you will have black and black/white wires in various places. Their locations differ with year models and trim levels. These are ground wires for computers and controls and everything. Every one of them will need to be grounded to the frame or engine/transmission.

At the rear of the goblin, you will need to ground the fuel pump with a leftover ground lug that you thinned from the harness. If your donor had ABS brakes you can use the ground lug from it. If not just use any other ground lug or you can make your own.
If your donor is an SS it will have a coolant tank level sensor that will need to be grounded.

Some trims have other black or black/white wires near the fuse box. They all need to be grounded.

The white square headlight connecter that goes on the driver's side of the fuse box has a ground lug with one large wire that goes to the white square connector and several others that went to the headlights, fog lights, and windshield washer pump. You need to extend three of the loose small ground wires out of the back of the goblin. Two are to be used for grounding your left and right tail lights and the third is to be used for the license plate lamp.

Upfront there will be roughly 16 to 20 wires that need to be grounded.

EVERY BLACK OR BLACK/WHITE WIRE needs to be grounded to the frame or engine/transmission.
 
Towerdog
When you are thinning your harnesses you will have black and black/white wires in various places. Their locations differ with year models and trim levels. These are ground wires for computers and controls and everything. Every one of them will need to be grounded to the frame or engine/transmission.

At the rear of the goblin, you will need to ground the fuel pump with a leftover ground lug that you thinned from the harness. If your donor had ABS brakes you can use the ground lug from it. If not just use any other ground lug or you can make your own.
If your donor is an SS it will have a coolant tank level sensor that will need to be grounded.

Some trims have other black or black/white wires near the fuse box. They all need to be grounded.

The white square headlight connecter that goes on the driver's side of the fuse box has a ground lug with one large wire that goes to the white square connector and several others that went to the headlights, fog lights, and windshield washer pump. You need to extend three of the loose small ground wires out of the back of the goblin. Two are to be used for grounding your left and right tail lights and the third is to be used for the license plate lamp.

Upfront there will be roughly 16 to 20 wires that need to be grounded.

EVERY BLACK OR BLACK/WHITE WIRE needs to be grounded to the frame or engine/transmission.
Thanks Lonny!
 
Towerdog
Well another day of working on the harness... I will say the dash harness was the worst to do... Mister organized didn't label a single plug (might have been a little barley pop involved when that got stripped) The engineer that decided to use the same switch for the cruise cancel and the clutch needs to be tared, feathered and ran out of GM on a rail!,,, That one took me an hour to figure out!

It got me to thinking today.. I do enjoy stuff like this I have been looking forward to the harness as much as anything else. But I have almost and will have a week into this by the time it is done $950 is pretty cheap to have Lonny do it!!
 
Towerdog
Hopefully tomorrow the government worker will bring me the last of the gaskets I need to finish putting my engine back together.... Never again Rock Auto, 15 days to get O rings that were in stock! Pony express was faster than that.
 
JBINTX
Hopefully tomorrow the government worker will bring me the last of the gaskets I need to finish putting my engine back together.... Never again Rock Auto, 15 days to get O rings that were in stock! Pony express was faster than that.
Every mode of delivery is slow these days. Some worse than others, of course. ;)
 
SmsDetroit
So here is my thinned out engine harness. As you can see there is a couple of feet of various sizes of wire loom. I had to purchase 50ft of each size of high temp nylon wire loom to do this. If anyone is interested in redoing their engine harness I have a bunch of loom to share.
That is one of the cleanest harnesses I’ve seen
 
Towerdog
Since the loom comes in different colors, would it make sense to 'color code' the different harnesses - engine, body/chassis, dash - using a separate color? Just thinking out loud. :D
The harness in the dash area is too tight for loom and from what Ive seen in build vids it would be tight in the tunnel also. Im using Tessa tape for the harness,, May add loom to the engine bay area for chaffing.

And all I could find in high temp was red and black.
 
Ross
Doyle Fabrication supplies those. Or buy a flare kit, and some stainless steel lines and bend up your own.

Update: Oops, I was thinking you wanted the long line from the bell house to the master cylinder. Glad you found the GM part!
 
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