V1 Traé’s Goblin (06’ SS/SC #501)

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Put it in yours so I can be an honorary member of team Trae.

 

[Traé]

Made some progress this evening.
Floor pans are installed, I didn’t have anyone to help me flip the frame so with the help of a jack, jack stands and a dirt bike stand I made it work! I only painted the underside of the floor pans and the outer face of the bulkhead. I plan to use some kind of rubber floor mat to cover the aluminum inside the car.

Power steering, pedal box, brake booster, clutch and brake lines are all installed. I did have to cut the hole a little larger for the collapsible steering shaft. I’ve seen others have issues with this and I blame it on the aftermarket one I got off of rock auto. I don’t have the one from the car anymore so I’m curious if that’s the reason.

I got the harness laid in and BCM temporarily mounted, harness is still unwrapped until the first start goes over smoothly. My plan is to get it started by this weekend but we will see, work is starting to pick up and it’s keeping me plenty busy. It’s coming together! I need to get the rest of my kit ordered!

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Great progress! Love the Kelly Green paint color, can't wait to see how the rest of the bodywork looks.

 

[Robinjo]

Tip for right now: find your BCM mount baggie and mount the 3 bolts in the order below. Reason for this is once you get all the items installed it's hard to reach the BCM bolts/Nuts. If you do this, then when you need to remove the BCM then all you need to remove is the 3 lock nuts (lock nut #2) instead of the whole thing. At some point, you will need to remove your BCM and this makes it sooo much easier. Especially if you end up doing one of the front splitters. Sorry for the crude PowerPoint drawing, I'm not down with technology.

 

[Traé]

Tip for right now: find your BCM mount baggie and mount the 3 bolts in the order below. Reason for this is once you get all the items installed it's hard to reach the BCM bolts/Nuts. If you do this, then when you need to remove the BCM then all you need to remove is the 3 lock nuts (lock nut #2) instead of the whole thing. At some point, you will need to remove your BCM and this makes it sooo much easier. Especially if you end up doing one of the front splitters.

Awesome! Thank you for the tip. I’m not mounting it just yet, I will be pulling the whole harness once it starts but I will definitely reference this post after.

 

[Traé]

While hooking up some of the dash harness sensors I noticed a stray grey wire that was cut. Didn’t look like it was torn and was a clean cut so I must have snipped it. I checked continuity to various sensors and it’s coming from the gauge cluster. It is pin #8.

Im having trouble finding anything in the wiring harness videos, where does this get tied into?

 

[comegetjoe]

View attachment 45746

Thats just beautiful :') I wish Idve seen that before ai got mad and cut my bolt and complained about it on the forum. lol

 

[Matt3458]

While hooking up some of the dash harness sensors I noticed a stray grey wire that was cut. Didn’t look like it was torn and was a clean cut so I must have snipped it. I checked continuity to various sensors and it’s coming from the gauge cluster. It is pin #8.

Im having trouble finding anything in the wiring harness videos, where does this get tied into?

Ok, this took way too long to find. IPC pin 8 is Instrument Panel Lamp Supply Voltage from the BCM through the light-gray connector C4 at pin F3. It originally had two gray wires. I have cut the one to the HVAC module and the other is still connected to the IPC connector. I think these are the lights for the instrument cluster or the warning lamps?

 

[Ross]

The back lighting, on all the dash gauges & HVAC controls, is on the same circuit. That way the dimmer dial can work on all dash/control lights.
Just attach that gray wire to one of those.

 

[Traé]

Ok, this took way too long to find. IPC pin 8 is Instrument Panel Lamp Supply Voltage from the BCM through the light-gray connector C4 at pin F3. It originally had two gray wires. I have cut the one to the HVAC module and the other is still connected to the IPC connector. I think these are the lights for the instrument cluster or the warning lamps?


View attachment 45753

View attachment 45754
View attachment 45755

Good news is I still have one wire in F3 as pictured. I’ll trace it out and find if it’s cut
Thank you!!

 

[Robinjo]

Awesome! Thank you for the tip. I’m not mounting it just yet, I will be pulling the whole harness once it starts but I will definitely reference this post after.

Another reason to do it early is you don't have to zip-tie the BCM in place. It can rest on the studs without Locknut #2

Thats just beautiful :') I wish Idve seen that before ai got mad and cut my bolt and complained about it on the forum. lol

I just got tired of fighting with getting a socket on the nut under the battery tray and keep an Allen wrench in the shank bolt head. Once my front splitter went on it was almost impossible to get a socket in there.

 

[Traé]

What engine oil and tranny (can I say that?) fluid is everyone running for higher mileage donors.”? I’m at 153k miles. Looking at mobil 1 full synthetic high mileage.
About to run and get fluids to fill up the engine and get it in the car.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Mobil 1 is the recommended oil from GM for the Ecotec motors. Dexcool is the recommended radiator coolant.

Your choice for full synthetic oil and any Dexcool equivalent cooling fluid would probably be just fine.

 

[Rttoys]

Any synthetic will be fine on engine oil. Then ac delco 19351859 for trans

 

[Traé]

Im probably fighting a losing battle but I have hooked my engine up without plumbing in the coolant lines or having fuel to the engine. I’m trying to at least get it to crank so I know it tries to start before I pull the harness to wrap…I have everything electrically hooked up, BCM and ECM have power. The lights are supplying power to the wires when they’re actuated. I have a “power steering” message on my DIC. I checked the resistance of the CANBUS system and it is at 60ohms

the throttle does not respond when the pedal is pressed and the car does not try to start. I know it is not put together as much as it should be but I should at least be able to crank it, right?

 

[Markm]

Check for dtcs and see what you have but yes it should start. I started mine with the wire harness still on the bench

 

[Traé]

Check for dtcs and see what you have but yes it should start. I started mine with the wire harness still on the bench

When plugging in it said it couldn’t connect

I just unhooked everything and cleaned up, I’ll research more and see if I can’t find someone with the same issues.

 

[Gtstorey]

If scanner won’t connect, that tells us as much as any codes it might read. If you have the 60ohms but no ECM talking, you are likely either missing power/ground to the ECM or a bad ECM. Assuming you have everything needed for the scanner to connect like power at the dlc.

 

[Markm]

I see you have 60 ohms with key off on pins 6,14 so that’s good. Check each circuits 6,14 for short to ground or short to power. Double check your grounds. Did you verify your grounds at the end of the harness videos?

 

[Traé]

I see you have 60 ohms with key off on pins 6,14 so that’s good. Check each circuits 6,14 for short to ground or short to power. Double check your grounds. Did you verify your grounds at the end of the harness videos?

No shorts in 6,14 or power. Pins 4,5 are grounded.

Yes, I checked continuity with everything and all was well.