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V1 Traé’s Goblin (06’ SS/SC #501)

Ross
Did your OBDii reader power up? Do you have 12V+ on pin 16?
Or did it power up, but not able to connect to the cars computers?
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Traé
Made a little progress. I can now jump the starter. When the key is turned to run the relay clicks but all power to the cluster turns off. It’s acting like a bad connection at the battery but the terminals have been cleaned and tightened.
 
Traé
Yes, I hooked it up a different way this time and got a better connection. I think that’s what got the starter jumped. I hooked the fuel pump up this time as well and it doesn’t prime when turned to the on position. Maybe a bad ignition? Not sending the signal to the starter
throttle still won’t open either.
 
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Ross
I had a intermittent power steering box, that sometimes would stop my ability to start the engine. I ended up running the starter's purple wire into the cabin, and as long as the key was turned on, I could jump the starter using auxillary 12V+ cigarette lighter. The engine would run, but sometimes, no power steering, or gauges.
 
Traé
I had a intermittent power steering box, that sometimes would stop my ability to start the engine. I ended up running the starter's purple wire into the cabin, and as long as the key was turned on, I could jump the starter using auxillary 12V+ cigarette lighter. The engine would run, but sometimes, no power steering, or gauges.
I found your “swappable electrical connectors” post…I forgot to hook up the engine to main harness connector. I had it tapped off still and thought it was not needed. I’m sure this isn’t helping some of the issues. I see the harness has a signal ground?
 
Ross
I would guess that the signal ground is for the 5V sensors, which are also on the engine to body harness connector. The 5V sensors are electrically sensitive, so they get their own ground wires.

Those swappable connectors have caused problems for a few of us builders.
 
Traé
The engine to body harness plug resolved the issue with the throttle. Throttle body now actuates with pedal and the power steering message is gone from the DIC. Still not able to get the starter to engage. I’m able to jump it so I know it works. Checked the crank relay pins and they all have continuity with ground and power.

I’ve removed and cleaned the power and ground locations and cables on the starter with a dremel but made no difference. From what I’m reading I have everything correct.

I’m able to read engine codes now and all codes have something to do with evap, o2 sensors and fuel pressure. Is there a code that could be telling the engine to not crank? I’m at a loss and don’t quite understand why I can’t get the starter to engage.
 
Traé
@Robinjo, The way I have the engine sitting on the ground that grounding point won’t reach. I do have the thick grounding wire hooked up to the transmission under the shifter cable bracket and a jumper cable hooked from the transmission grounding point to the chassis.
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Robinjo
I see why it won’t start. You don’t have the turn signal switch hooked up, do you? You need all components minus the lights hooked up. Maybe not the hx pump and coolant reservoir either.
If it won’t start then, it may need the engine bolted in to act as another ground point.

Make sure all the head light/tail light ends aren’t touching the frame either.
 
Traé
I see why it won’t start. You don’t have the turn signal switch hooked up, do you? You need all components minus the lights hooked up. Maybe not the hx pump either.

make sure all the head light/tail light ends aren’t touching the frame either.
I do have the turn signal switch installed, I don’t have the HX pump plugged in though. I will try that and verify the lighting wires aren’t touching anything.

wasn’t the HX pump. Still no starter
 
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G
At some point you have to trace this out and narrow things down. Is the starting relay getting power? Is it getting signal? At some point, an hour or two of proper diagnostics should narrow this way down.
 
Traé
I think I found the issue. The crank relay is loose, I jumped out the relay and it cranked. I need to bend the connectors so the relay fits snug. I probably bent the connectors when taking voltage and ground readings:/.
UPDATE: I bent the relay prongs a bit and it made a tighter connection. If this becomes an issue in the future I may build up the thickness of the relay probes with solder. It now cranks…Thank you all for your help!
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Traé
Engine is in, fuse box is mounted. I was able to get it done alone by jacking the car up as high as I could and rolling the engine in sideways. As I cleared the rear most tubes on the frame I could orientate it correctly.
I just have to plumb the coolant hoses and figure out routing the fuel filter. Where is everyone putting theirs on the manual cars?
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Traé
Update on progress;
Engine and subframe are mounted. I would say out of the whole process so far this was the biggest pain. I ground down the front transmission mount a bit in order to get a little more flex in the subframe to get it all lined up. Im sure my previous issue with the top bolt on the transmission mount being damaged did not help at all with alignment. None the less it is all installed!
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The coolant lines are all plumbed and ready to be filled.
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Last thing preventing the first start is getting the fuel line ran. I had to order connectors, fuel line and a new fuel filter. Connectors and fuel line arrived today and the fuel filter is scheduled to be in tomorrow.
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I am still waiting on a quote from DF to get the rest of my kit ordered. It has been more than a month since the quote was requested. I have had plenty to keep me busy with the build up until now. I have called and emailed and am on the invoice list. I will have to give them another call tomorrow and get an update.
 
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