Captain Dave
Well-Known Member
- Captain Dave Well-Known Member
That is the stock length cable right?
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V1 Captain Dave's City Goblin #336 - 07 SS/SC Donor
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Before cutting, you better know how the cable ends are going to be reattached - permanently. These pieces see a lot of tension when the brake is on. But, replacements are still available on Rockauto if it doesn't work out.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
- comegetjoe Goblin Guru
I second this. I used the same cames Trae sent me numbers for and they worked out great.
Captain Dave
Well-Known Member
- Captain Dave Well-Known Member
I got the parking brake installed today. I did not cut the cables. I thought they would be way too long but after seeing how they fit on the car I realized there is really no need to cut. I need to bleed the brakes and clutch and then see if adjustments are needed for the shifter. Hopefully a test drive isn't that far away!
Captain Dave
Well-Known Member
- Captain Dave Well-Known Member
Just finished bleeding the brakes and clutch. Everything seems to be holding except when I push the clutch in far enough to engage, it pops the master cylinder out of the mounting hole. Is there supposed to be a bracket to hold it in place?
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
The master cylinder has 'ears' on it, so when it is pushed in place, rotate it 1/8 or so turn so the ears hold it in place.
Captain Dave
Well-Known Member
- Captain Dave Well-Known Member
Thanks. I was trying to do that but it seemed to continue to pop out. I just found a video that shows that it needs to be rotated until the inlet tube is at the 12 o'clock. I may not have rotated it enough.
Captain Dave
Well-Known Member
- Captain Dave Well-Known Member
The inlet tube just needed to be rotated more so that fixed that problem.
Next problem, I lost throttle response somehow. When I did my first start the throttle worked fine. After I got the brakes installed and bled them and the clutch, the throttle does not work now. I did have to remove the fuse box to get to the clutch bleeder. I have since removed the fuse box again to make sure everything was hooked up and I didn't have a bent prong or anything. I am getting a P2122 code (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch D Circuit Low). Anyone know what this means or where I should start?
On a positive note, the car moved under its own power for the first time today. I was able to get it in 1st and ease the clutch out slowly. Small victories.
Next problem, I lost throttle response somehow. When I did my first start the throttle worked fine. After I got the brakes installed and bled them and the clutch, the throttle does not work now. I did have to remove the fuse box to get to the clutch bleeder. I have since removed the fuse box again to make sure everything was hooked up and I didn't have a bent prong or anything. I am getting a P2122 code (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch D Circuit Low). Anyone know what this means or where I should start?
On a positive note, the car moved under its own power for the first time today. I was able to get it in 1st and ease the clutch out slowly. Small victories.
Captain Dave
Well-Known Member
- Captain Dave Well-Known Member
Did some more work on the car today. Pulled the fuse box again just to make sure I’m not missing anything. Didn’t help. Replaced the throttle body and that didn’t help either. The plate in the throttle body is working when I switch the car on and off but no response from the throttle pedal. Frustrating because it worked fine before bleeding the clutch. Still looking for suggestions.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
The connections between the TB and ECM are good since it responds to the start up throttle plate cycle at key on. That means you have a problem with the connections between the ECM and throttle pedal or its the sensors on the pedal. Check your connections for a bent pin or broken wire in the harness. You can also check the sensor on the pedal with an ohm meter to see that the resistance value is changing when the pedal is pushed.
Captain Dave
Well-Known Member
- Captain Dave Well-Known Member
To check the sensors on the pedal do I just put the multi meter to ohms and check between the different pins in the connector? I am not sure what sensor you are talking about on the pedal.
Captain Dave
Well-Known Member
- Captain Dave Well-Known Member
I did check the connector on the pedal assembly but I will do a more thorough check tomorrow. I have the setup that has to use the extra connector to connect the throttle to the wiring harness. The part that makes this all tough is the throttle has worked in the past. I may try a new pedal assembly if I am unable to track down the issue.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
- ah.b.normal Goblin Guru
Trying NOT to throw a wrench in the works but I seem to recall a "no throttle body response to pedal" due to incomplete LAN? BUT oddly the TB responded at start up?, just a broken LAN wire due to ABS delete IIRC. I could be chasing ghosts?, please test/ double check LAN loop circuit is complete.
{Or it might be a ground?
} Didja ever watch that show, "House"? Bad Grounds are our, "It's never Lupus."
{Or it might be a ground?
} Didja ever watch that show, "House"? Bad Grounds are our, "It's never Lupus."Captain Dave
Well-Known Member
- Captain Dave Well-Known Member
Tested the LAN today. I have right at 60 ohms between the CAN low and the CAN high. I also tested the pedal sensor.The first Potentiometer started right at 2volts and ended at .5 volts when I pressed the pedal down. The second Potentiometer started at about 2.7 volts and ended at around 1.9 volts. Both of these readings are normal functions according to my research. All of the connections at the pedal look good. Back to the drawing board.
Robinjo
Goblin Guru
- Robinjo Goblin Guru
A couple of LSJ donors had issues with the wires between the pedal and ECM having poor connections. It was intermittent at first, but it got worse and worse. I ended up running a separate 6 wire cable from the pedal connector to the ECM. The link below fixed my problem, fix starts around post #42.
dfkitcar.com
V1 - P2138 code and intermittent limp mode!
Hey guys my goblin has the 2008 LNF ss doner. recently when I have been driving around, my goblin has been intermittently going into limp mode. It can be a 2 min drive or a 15 min drive when it kicks in. I turn on the car and turn it back on, then it’s fine again for another 2min-15min. It’s...
Captain Dave
Well-Known Member
- Captain Dave Well-Known Member
Looks like this is my next step. Do you happen to have a picture of the connection you made at the ECM?A couple of LSJ donors had issues with the wires between the pedal and ECM having poor connections. It was intermittent at first, but it got worse and worse. I ended up running a separate 6 wire cable from the pedal connector to the ECM. The link below fixed my problem, fix starts around post #42.
V1 - P2138 code and intermittent limp mode!
Hey guys my goblin has the 2008 LNF ss doner. recently when I have been driving around, my goblin has been intermittently going into limp mode. It can be a 2 min drive or a 15 min drive when it kicks in. I turn on the car and turn it back on, then it’s fine again for another 2min-15min. It’s...
