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V1 Corey's track Goblin #261 LSJ-T swapped 06 Donor G85, Cont.........
- Corey Well-Known Member
Can someone confirm the unique colored links and alignment marks do or do not line up on every rotation. In one of the previous post in this thread a member stated they do not line up the same on every rotation and only for initial alignment??
It does not seem logical if the do not line up on every rotation. At this time the chain is off the alignment marks by 2 teeth at EXH, IN and crankshaft. See current pic below. Also see original builder photo showing the unique link and alignment marks are lined up.
Regardless of the 2 teeth possible misalignment the 12 oclock and 5 oclock at the crank and the 10 and 2 positions on the camshaft sprockets do appear to be in the proper positions.
Conclusion regarding the timing is I feel the timing alignments at the 3 points (crank and 2 cams) is proper and correct.
It does not seem logical if the do not line up on every rotation. At this time the chain is off the alignment marks by 2 teeth at EXH, IN and crankshaft. See current pic below. Also see original builder photo showing the unique link and alignment marks are lined up.
Regardless of the 2 teeth possible misalignment the 12 oclock and 5 oclock at the crank and the 10 and 2 positions on the camshaft sprockets do appear to be in the proper positions.
Conclusion regarding the timing is I feel the timing alignments at the 3 points (crank and 2 cams) is proper and correct.
Attachments
TravMac
Well-Known Member
- TravMac Well-Known Member
After doing a few of these kits for timing sets at this point, I can confirm the initial alignment is where you'll have everything line up perfectly. Unless of course you're lucky and happen to hit the magical revolution where they line up again (some amount of math can figure this out, but certainly not a number you would hand crank over to). If it did line up at first glance, I'd buy a lottery ticket. If you don't trust it, you can always go through the motions of taking it apart as if you had a new set, and re-installing it (also learned this a few times too).
But really though, this build is one of the more solid ones. It's odd to just be all of a sudden dead. The following may seem like dumb thoughts, but certainly back to the basics:
- Are you running enough/the right fuel? Sounds like a yes on enough fuel from reading, but state to state can vary with octane levels and additives for summer/winter gas, so could come down to a touchy tune and a recent refill that the car doesn't like.
- Are you getting airflow? Again sounds like yes, so probably not anything here unless it's a MAF/MAP sensor that you'd see with a code scanner. Those can go all of a sudden.
- Are all your electrical connections secure? This one was interesting only because you also mentioned a bad battery too and there's always room for a current draw somewhere. Again, wouldn't expect given the build history, but you never know.
I have to hand it to you, you're well into this project already for getting it recently and already having the engine apart. You'll find that ah-ha moment soon, and get to learn a lot about the build you now own while you're at it!
But really though, this build is one of the more solid ones. It's odd to just be all of a sudden dead. The following may seem like dumb thoughts, but certainly back to the basics:
- Are you running enough/the right fuel? Sounds like a yes on enough fuel from reading, but state to state can vary with octane levels and additives for summer/winter gas, so could come down to a touchy tune and a recent refill that the car doesn't like.
- Are you getting airflow? Again sounds like yes, so probably not anything here unless it's a MAF/MAP sensor that you'd see with a code scanner. Those can go all of a sudden.
- Are all your electrical connections secure? This one was interesting only because you also mentioned a bad battery too and there's always room for a current draw somewhere. Again, wouldn't expect given the build history, but you never know.
I have to hand it to you, you're well into this project already for getting it recently and already having the engine apart. You'll find that ah-ha moment soon, and get to learn a lot about the build you now own while you're at it!
- Corey Well-Known Member
I was considering a reset on the chain/camshaft just because I am there, but dont fix it if it aint broke. I did have to atleast confirm it for myself!!
- Are you running enough/the right fuel? Sounds like a yes on enough fuel from reading, but state to state can vary with octane levels and additives for summer/winter gas, so could come down to a touchy tune and a recent refill that the car doesn't like.
The tank is about half full from the original builder. So I have not added much, 1 Gallon at initial issue but I had not taken the fuel pump out yet to verify qty. As far as the right fuel my plan is to get with HP tuners, once I get the motor going again and determine that with them since the tune process has already been started with them.
- Are you getting airflow? Again sounds like yes, so probably not anything here unless it's a MAF/MAP sensor that you'd see with a code scanner. Those can go all of a sudden. I am not sure if the MAP throws a code when bad, I know the MAF on my truck does NOT throw a code. My truck can start and idle with a bad MAF but I could not touch the pedal with out killing the motor and never a code.
- Are all your electrical connections secure? This one was interesting only because you also mentioned a bad battery too and there's always room for a current draw somewhere. Again, wouldn't expect given the build history, but you never know.
The batt was not bad, I ran it down trying to get the motor to restart, I am checking connections as I go thru things, Most are still labeled from the previous owner which is very helpful.
I have to hand it to you, you're well into this project already for getting it recently and already having the engine apart. You'll find that ah-ha moment soon, and get to learn a lot about the build you now own while you're at it! I used to race motocross, My CRF250R top end had to be rebuilt about every 6 mths depending on how much race time I would get. So not scared to tackle a timing chain or valves. Did blow the 250 once and had to rebuild the top and bottom end. And Thanks!! And Yes the build is very solid regardless of this crank no start issue.
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
Not sure what you mean by "get with HP Tuners".... "tune process already started with them". That is not how HP Tuners works. It is an interface device and program that allows you or someone else to tune the vehicle, but HPT doesn't tune or even offer tuning advice.
The DTC list needs to be reviewed with an HPT device/program to ensure what Codes can be set. I would see if the seller can send you the last tune file loaded to see what has been turned off.
The DTC list needs to be reviewed with an HPT device/program to ensure what Codes can be set. I would see if the seller can send you the last tune file loaded to see what has been turned off.
TravMac
Well-Known Member
- TravMac Well-Known Member
Tuning certainly is an art once you start to learn more about it. But yea make sure you know what the previous owner ran for fuel since that'll really play into how it runs for you. My setup is running e85 and can be a bit finicky to get going, but fantastic when it's warmed up.
Glad to see your notes too. I'd suggest a cheap code scanner to rule out a few things right away. Hp tuners can do that and more too if you jump right into it. Either way, reading codes is very useful for diagnosing on these cars.
Glad to see your notes too. I'd suggest a cheap code scanner to rule out a few things right away. Hp tuners can do that and more too if you jump right into it. Either way, reading codes is very useful for diagnosing on these cars.
