newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
Sounds like i'll need to check the grounds before I get too into anything else. I'll do just that.
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V1 Riley's Full Cage Goblin -07 SS/TC F23 #457
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
Did you update Speedometer vs VSS Pulses / Mile?
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
Wow, I hope it's really this easy. No, I did not.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
Yesterday I spent a few minutes working on the car. I solved the headlight problem; the idiot that installed the connector didn't push the pins into the connector all the way, so contact was poor. easy fix.
I also went around and refreshed all of the ground spades with a piece of sandpaper. I also removed the washers and nuts from the front and rear ground post, stripped the powdercoat off of them using a tin can and some leftover Strippex from my coil spring powdercoating adventure. Now there is a very clean ground connection.
Of course, my speedometer still is showing the same symptoms. I'll have to jump on HP Tuners and make the change mentioned by Rauq just above.
-on this same note, I have a question that arises from an observation I made yesterday: When i insert the key and turn it to the on position, my tac and speedometer needle rises up to the zero position, but doesn't perform a full sweep. Is this normal for an -07 SS?
Finally, I ordered a BRFPR, some PTFE AN6 hose/connectors, and a single inlet/outlet fuel filter. It is time to refresh my fuel system.
The last major change I am on the fence about making is an electronic boost controller... I'll continue to sit on the fence and consider for a while. any input would be appreciated.
I also went around and refreshed all of the ground spades with a piece of sandpaper. I also removed the washers and nuts from the front and rear ground post, stripped the powdercoat off of them using a tin can and some leftover Strippex from my coil spring powdercoating adventure. Now there is a very clean ground connection.
Of course, my speedometer still is showing the same symptoms. I'll have to jump on HP Tuners and make the change mentioned by Rauq just above.
-on this same note, I have a question that arises from an observation I made yesterday: When i insert the key and turn it to the on position, my tac and speedometer needle rises up to the zero position, but doesn't perform a full sweep. Is this normal for an -07 SS?
Finally, I ordered a BRFPR, some PTFE AN6 hose/connectors, and a single inlet/outlet fuel filter. It is time to refresh my fuel system.
The last major change I am on the fence about making is an electronic boost controller... I'll continue to sit on the fence and consider for a while. any input would be appreciated.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
I am running a Tru-boost because I came by it cheap. It's on the more basic side because you can only set various duty cycles which will correspond by some factor to increased boost levels. With it off, the wastegate will run at spring pressure, while settings A and B will let you run some % duty cycle above spring pressure, limited to about 2x spring pressure. There's also a scramble button option that you can wire.
Fancier boost controllers (like Cortex, I think), will let you set target boost levels. If your target is within a reachable range (again, ~2x wastegate spring-only boost with a 3 port MAC valve), it'll control the valve to keep the wastegate closed until your boost level is achieved. I would guess but don't know that the Cortex and other target-seeking boost controllers will let you run different boost levels as an easily toggle-able setting.
The basic advantage of a Tru-boost over a simple manual boost controller (like a hand-adjustable pneumatic valve spliced into some pneumatic tubing at the back of the car) is being able to change boost settings with a button, and serving as a boost gauge. I will note that I pretty much only change boost levels before and after a track day.
Fancier boost controllers (like Cortex, I think), will let you set target boost levels. If your target is within a reachable range (again, ~2x wastegate spring-only boost with a 3 port MAC valve), it'll control the valve to keep the wastegate closed until your boost level is achieved. I would guess but don't know that the Cortex and other target-seeking boost controllers will let you run different boost levels as an easily toggle-able setting.
The basic advantage of a Tru-boost over a simple manual boost controller (like a hand-adjustable pneumatic valve spliced into some pneumatic tubing at the back of the car) is being able to change boost settings with a button, and serving as a boost gauge. I will note that I pretty much only change boost levels before and after a track day.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
Yesterday I took the time to install the boost reference fuel pressure regulator and PTFE AN6 hose I linked in my last post. This morning I primed the system up by pulling the schrader valve off of the fuel rail, attaching a hose connected to a jug, and jumping the fuel pump relay from pin 87 to 30. I also set the BRFPR to about 3 bar (45 PSI) while vented to atmosphere, which was suggested to me by the tuner i'm working with at ZZP. I'd like to take the car out for a quick RIP and record a log to send to the tuner, but it's just pouring rain today and yesterday. Next time I get good weather, this is what i'll do.
before vs after
Install was pretty easy, minus PTFE AN6 hose itself... The wire weave in the hose was a major PITA to deal with, especially for the connection to the supply and return port off the top of the bulkhead. For this connection, I had to unravel the thread and wire around the hose so the PTFE liner could expand over the barbed connection point. I also installed a hose clamp to attempt to keep it secured.
Fun fact, PTFE is a material that we use in suture that we implement in cardiac surgery. I noticed the white suture yesterday morning and connected the dots.
before vs after
Install was pretty easy, minus PTFE AN6 hose itself... The wire weave in the hose was a major PITA to deal with, especially for the connection to the supply and return port off the top of the bulkhead. For this connection, I had to unravel the thread and wire around the hose so the PTFE liner could expand over the barbed connection point. I also installed a hose clamp to attempt to keep it secured.
Fun fact, PTFE is a material that we use in suture that we implement in cardiac surgery. I noticed the white suture yesterday morning and connected the dots.
Attachments
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
I'm certainly not going to tell you your install is wrong and I don't know for a fact that any other configuration is better or meaningfully different, but it is my understanding that putting the regulator on a return line from the rail is preferable compared to deadheading the supply line to the rail. The theory makes sense to me that putting the regulator on a return line from the rail keeps the fuel pressure in the rail more in line with what the regulator is commanding, but I don't know if the difference between that and deadheading the rail is worth the extra effort. It'll require an extra fitting or two on the rail and new or reworked lines compared to what you have set up, but if that's something you ever want to set up, now's probably the time to do it.
I will say that none of the big Ecotec shops recommend the conversion, but I don't know if that's because it's not worth the effort or it's not worth the effort in a Cobalt.
Otherwise, looks good!
I will say that none of the big Ecotec shops recommend the conversion, but I don't know if that's because it's not worth the effort or it's not worth the effort in a Cobalt.
Otherwise, looks good!
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
This flow path is pretty much identical to stock LSJ design, but with the added benefit of boost reference regulation. I’m confident it’ll be adequate.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
I am finally to the point where i only have a couple gremlins left (that i have found, that is). the first is still the speedometer. I tried changing the gear ratio and pulse/mile to what it should be in HP Tuners, but for some reason i can't get it to stick. Maybe I just don't know how to properly save the changes in the speedometer window? Not sure... I consulted the ZZP Tuner I'm working with on that one.
Gremlin number 2 is... I am not getting the amount of boost that I think I should. ~7 psi vs 24 psi. I have a Z57 turbo and a manual ZZP boost controller currently (will probably definitely upgrade this at some point in the future to an electronic boost controller). That said, I'm not confident that my boost controller is plumbed in correctly, considering that I don't even know what the beige/tan circular cover is on my turbo. It's currently connected to the nipple below the throttle body. does anyone have any input on this matter? I'll attach pics that show the turbo boost controller plumbing.
Since the bulk of the work that I have to do before I'm ready to show it off on the street is tuning, I figure it's time to get this thing insured and registered... because i'm test driving and recording logs on the street lol! (This is probably a joke)
I'm a resident of Montana, unlike many of you that have/will register in Montana... But after some light browsing of the forum on the process for getting registered in MT, I am left more confused. Many of you talk about getting an LLC, selling the car to your LLC for $0, and a few other things so that it can be registered in MT, but I'm assuming these are all hoops that I won't have to jump through as a resident. It's Friday night right now, so i'll call the local DMV and hope they know what the process is and see if I can get lined out. Otherwise, if you know, please speak up since it would help
Gremlin number 2 is... I am not getting the amount of boost that I think I should. ~7 psi vs 24 psi. I have a Z57 turbo and a manual ZZP boost controller currently (will probably definitely upgrade this at some point in the future to an electronic boost controller). That said, I'm not confident that my boost controller is plumbed in correctly, considering that I don't even know what the beige/tan circular cover is on my turbo. It's currently connected to the nipple below the throttle body. does anyone have any input on this matter? I'll attach pics that show the turbo boost controller plumbing.
Since the bulk of the work that I have to do before I'm ready to show it off on the street is tuning, I figure it's time to get this thing insured and registered... because i'm test driving and recording logs on the street lol! (This is probably a joke)
I'm a resident of Montana, unlike many of you that have/will register in Montana... But after some light browsing of the forum on the process for getting registered in MT, I am left more confused. Many of you talk about getting an LLC, selling the car to your LLC for $0, and a few other things so that it can be registered in MT, but I'm assuming these are all hoops that I won't have to jump through as a resident. It's Friday night right now, so i'll call the local DMV and hope they know what the process is and see if I can get lined out. Otherwise, if you know, please speak up since it would help
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
The beige/tan circular cover on the turbo is the vacuum chamber for the blow off valve, on the intake side of the turbo.
The hose for a blow-off valve (BOV) connects to a vacuum source on the intake manifold, downstream of the throttle body (after the butterfly valve).
The steel chamber at the bottom of your turbo is controlling the wastegate on the exhaust side of the turbo.
The wastegate connects to a boost pressure source, looks like you have it connected to a boost controller.
As a resident of Montana, I think you can just register it. Us, non-Montana residents, need to register in our local state. If our local state makes registering a goblin difficult or impossible, we can get a Montana LLC, sell it the goblin, and the LLC is allowed to register in Montana.
The hose for a blow-off valve (BOV) connects to a vacuum source on the intake manifold, downstream of the throttle body (after the butterfly valve).
The steel chamber at the bottom of your turbo is controlling the wastegate on the exhaust side of the turbo.
The wastegate connects to a boost pressure source, looks like you have it connected to a boost controller.
As a resident of Montana, I think you can just register it. Us, non-Montana residents, need to register in our local state. If our local state makes registering a goblin difficult or impossible, we can get a Montana LLC, sell it the goblin, and the LLC is allowed to register in Montana.
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newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
Yes, the black box is the manual boost controller.
Ok, this confirms to me that this is plumbed correctly. The next course of action is to bypass the boost controller and go from the compressor housing straight to the wastegate. According to the tuner, that should produce about 14-17 lbs of boost. If this is the result, I need a new boost controller and this one is faulty.
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
It could be the boost controller. Your bypass test should shed some light on this.
Otherwise:
It could be a leaky intake plumbing. I would check with soapy water is a spray bottle, and see if it makes bubbles when under turbo pressure.
It could be an exhaust leak. Check for any soot marks, or a cotton ball on a string, and see if any exhaust puffs will blow the cotton ball.
It could be leaks in the vacuum lines.
Otherwise:
It could be a leaky intake plumbing. I would check with soapy water is a spray bottle, and see if it makes bubbles when under turbo pressure.
It could be an exhaust leak. Check for any soot marks, or a cotton ball on a string, and see if any exhaust puffs will blow the cotton ball.
It could be leaks in the vacuum lines.
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
I don't think the trans ratio matters because the diff and tires are 1:1, but the Pulses per Mile will depend on your tire size.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
Ah, yes. I see I missed that detail. I read about the different tooth count on the reluctor, and had to use that for the pulses per mile calc, but failed to change the VSS pulses per rev.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
New update: I got the Goblin insured through Progressive today. I already have an auto policy through them and have for a long time. To get insured, I just called them up and said, "I know of a guy that registered a kit car through you and I can provide some of his car's information so you can look it up and basically copy the information for a policy". Here's the link where that information is discussed.
I also got a VIN inspection today. Again, I am a Montana resident, so when you see my Montana plates, I did not have to get an LLC and do the things that a lot of you have had to. After the VIN inspection, I went to the county courthouse/DMV (Missoula) and titled and registered a new trailer, but also asked some questions about registering the Goblin while I was there. A few interesting tidbits I found is that they do not confirm your insurance for the vehicle. They also do not need a bill of sale or parts receipts. All they want is the certificate of origin (which I emailed DF about getting and am waiting on), form MV20, form MV121, MV1, and MV70A.
Form MV20 is the VIN inspection form. I called the nonemergent dispatch line and requested an inspection and they sent an officer out to do that. They didn't charge anything to do so. Form MV121 just declares the vehicle definition. At the DMV there was some back and forth about whether it classified as a "kit car", or a "specially constructed vehicle", and it was ultimately decided it would be classified under kit car. The only consequence of falling into the other category would be the requirement of the MV70A form (just a self-completed checklist that classifies the car as being street legal) so I completed this form just in case they decide i need it when I go in to actually get the car registered. Finally, form MV1 is just the title application, just like you'd fill out for any other vehicle title in MT.
When I brought up the questions about registering the kit cars in MT, me and the clerk had a few laughs about how she was fairly experienced with registering these and similar cars that were owned through LLCs (AKA most of you guys) HAHA
On a different note, I heard back from ZZP with an updated tune. They also changed the VSS Pulse/mile on the tune so I can hopefully read speed properly from my F23 transmission. Also, to address the boost issue, I do have the boost controller hooked up properly (confirmed by tuner), but the result isn't as desired for an undetermined reason. Once I can spend more time on the road (When I get plates on the car), I'll disconnect the boost controller and just direct pipe a line from the compressor side to the wastegate, which should provide about 14-17 PSI of boost on the Z57 turbo i have. If I don't see this, I'll search for boost leaks.
I also got a VIN inspection today. Again, I am a Montana resident, so when you see my Montana plates, I did not have to get an LLC and do the things that a lot of you have had to. After the VIN inspection, I went to the county courthouse/DMV (Missoula) and titled and registered a new trailer, but also asked some questions about registering the Goblin while I was there. A few interesting tidbits I found is that they do not confirm your insurance for the vehicle. They also do not need a bill of sale or parts receipts. All they want is the certificate of origin (which I emailed DF about getting and am waiting on), form MV20, form MV121, MV1, and MV70A.
Form MV20 is the VIN inspection form. I called the nonemergent dispatch line and requested an inspection and they sent an officer out to do that. They didn't charge anything to do so. Form MV121 just declares the vehicle definition. At the DMV there was some back and forth about whether it classified as a "kit car", or a "specially constructed vehicle", and it was ultimately decided it would be classified under kit car. The only consequence of falling into the other category would be the requirement of the MV70A form (just a self-completed checklist that classifies the car as being street legal) so I completed this form just in case they decide i need it when I go in to actually get the car registered. Finally, form MV1 is just the title application, just like you'd fill out for any other vehicle title in MT.
When I brought up the questions about registering the kit cars in MT, me and the clerk had a few laughs about how she was fairly experienced with registering these and similar cars that were owned through LLCs (AKA most of you guys) HAHA
On a different note, I heard back from ZZP with an updated tune. They also changed the VSS Pulse/mile on the tune so I can hopefully read speed properly from my F23 transmission. Also, to address the boost issue, I do have the boost controller hooked up properly (confirmed by tuner), but the result isn't as desired for an undetermined reason. Once I can spend more time on the road (When I get plates on the car), I'll disconnect the boost controller and just direct pipe a line from the compressor side to the wastegate, which should provide about 14-17 PSI of boost on the Z57 turbo i have. If I don't see this, I'll search for boost leaks.
newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
While I wait on my certificate of origin from DF (the one thing i currently need to register the car), I'm looking at helmet/bluetooth system combos. Does anyone have any recommendations based on personal experience? I'd like to be able to communicate with my passenger and/or listen to music while cruising around.
Rttoys
Smokin' Goblin
- Rttoys Smokin' Goblin
I have used Cardo Packtalk for years on my bikes and in the goblin. Easy voice commands to operate your phone/radio/Bluetooth and such hands free, plus it communicates well with my passenger. The other Houston guys got them and we tried to use them at autocross, but syncing them up was a challenge. Then, the distance of use was a bit less than desired.
cardosystems.com
edit: wow the prices are way higher than when I bought mine 6+ years ago. Get off my lawn!!!
Motorcycle
Shop Cardo's full range of motorcycle Bluetooth intercoms and helmet headsets. Dynamic Mesh Communication, JBL audio, and voice control - for solo and groups
cardosystems.com
edit: wow the prices are way higher than when I bought mine 6+ years ago. Get off my lawn!!!
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newbtrying
Well-Known Member
- newbtrying Well-Known Member
Still waiting on the certificate of origin to register the Goblin. I'm trying to be patient but I'm terrible at it. The silver lining is that it's been raining/snowing here in MT every day since I sent support my email. However, we're about to get several sunny, 70 degree days this week.
While I continue to wait, I should probably find some loose ends on the car to tie up. One of which is the cruise control. I have a blue wire that I have labeled "cruise control," but I've scoured the forum and don't see anything that shows what a guy needs to do to get this thing rigged up right. I did see conversations that I'd need to purchase a resistor, and locate my 3rd brake light wiring (no idea where this is or if i even extended it), but that is the extent of what I've learned. Anyone have any tips or links to a guide/article about the process?
Finally, I think I will choose to go with the Cardo comm systems, but wow... pricey. Maybe I'll wait till my birthday or something and buy myself a little treat.
While I continue to wait, I should probably find some loose ends on the car to tie up. One of which is the cruise control. I have a blue wire that I have labeled "cruise control," but I've scoured the forum and don't see anything that shows what a guy needs to do to get this thing rigged up right. I did see conversations that I'd need to purchase a resistor, and locate my 3rd brake light wiring (no idea where this is or if i even extended it), but that is the extent of what I've learned. Anyone have any tips or links to a guide/article about the process?
Finally, I think I will choose to go with the Cardo comm systems, but wow... pricey. Maybe I'll wait till my birthday or something and buy myself a little treat.
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
Cruise control:
The only blue wire I can find for the cruise control is the CHMSL (Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp) wire.
You can connect this wire to a 12V CHMSL filament light bulb like the stock Cobalt did, and the cruise control should work correctly.
If you use a LED light for your CHMSL light, or no CHMSL light, then you need to add a 2-watt, 100-ohm resistor across where the CHMSL light goes.
This is to allow the cruise control to work, as the BCM needs the extra power draw to detect the brake light has gone on.
Also, you need to wire the gray wire coming from the button panel that is used by the cruise control.
That gray wire goes to the BCM C2 connector, on pin 61.
The 2007 wiring is considered the early model wiring.
AllDataDIY wiring diagram for the cruise controls is here.
Comm systems:
I am on my 3rd comm systems for the motorcycle/goblin helmets. All of them worked when I get the vehicle down to about 30 mph, but the wind noise above that speed prevents me from hearing much.
When this set wears out, I plan on buying helmets that have integrated comm systems, as the engineering for wind noise inside the helmet has always plagued me when I install the microphone and speakers myself.
The only blue wire I can find for the cruise control is the CHMSL (Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp) wire.
You can connect this wire to a 12V CHMSL filament light bulb like the stock Cobalt did, and the cruise control should work correctly.
If you use a LED light for your CHMSL light, or no CHMSL light, then you need to add a 2-watt, 100-ohm resistor across where the CHMSL light goes.
This is to allow the cruise control to work, as the BCM needs the extra power draw to detect the brake light has gone on.
Also, you need to wire the gray wire coming from the button panel that is used by the cruise control.
That gray wire goes to the BCM C2 connector, on pin 61.
The 2007 wiring is considered the early model wiring.
AllDataDIY wiring diagram for the cruise controls is here.
Comm systems:
I am on my 3rd comm systems for the motorcycle/goblin helmets. All of them worked when I get the vehicle down to about 30 mph, but the wind noise above that speed prevents me from hearing much.
When this set wears out, I plan on buying helmets that have integrated comm systems, as the engineering for wind noise inside the helmet has always plagued me when I install the microphone and speakers myself.
