V1 Traé’s Goblin (06’ SS/SC #501)

[Traé]

Getting the subframe cleaned off for paint, are the radiator mounts repurposed in the goblin? or can they be removed?

 

[Ross]

Lonny put the ambient temperature sensor on it... but you could mount it anywhere, so you could just cut them off the subframe, as they aren't used.

 

[Traé]

Lonny put the ambient temperature sensor on it... but you could mount it anywhere, so you could just cut them off the subframe, as they aren't used.

Ahh, perfect. I will look at some pictures and see what side he used. I need to order one as my donor didn’t have it.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the ambient temp sensor is completely optional

 

[Rttoys]

It is, but good to have. You can zip tie it anywhere for that matter.

 

[Markm]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the ambient temp sensor is completely optional

The wires for my ambient temp sensor were twisted together and sensor missing but it has one now

 

[Robinjo]

The radiator keeps on the subframe do make nice points to zip-tie the e-brake tubes to.

 

[Traé]

The radiator keeps on the subframe do make nice points to zip-tie the e-brake tubes to.

ooo thats a great idea, I'm glad I put my grinder away before some of these responses.

 

[ah.b.normal]

ooo thats a great idea, I'm glad I put my grinder away before some of these responses.

You can always lop them off later, or cut them down.
I want to mention my friend Josh09, got the tow bar(said he'd never use it) and one week into driving had a CV joint fail. He towed it home and said it was a lifesaver! (DF makes one and there is one from Northern that I have seen on this forum looks as useable.)

 

[Traé]

After deciding on a few colors for my frame and body panels, I’ve come to the realization that automotive paint is **** expensive! With wanting to keep budget in mind and not go overboard, I’ve been looking into spray painting the frame or using rustoleum in a spray gun. Using a widely available brand and color would let me touch up as needed and repair spots if i weld on it later.

Color scheme I was going for was a dark green frame, similar color to British racing green, and dark gray body panels. These would of course be topped off with bronze wheels…my favorite

I have finished painting some donor parts with rustoleum gloss enamel and I’m very happy with how they turned out.

Any feedback from those who have painted their frame? I’ve seen a few on here that have gone that route.

I know powder coating is the fan favorite and I understand 100%. It may not be as durable but I do not want to pay that much to get the same color I can get for a fraction of the cost. Plus I can do it myself, eliminating someone from helping to shoot for the goal of doing this build on my own (and all of the forums guidance of course haha).

 

[Ark :D]

What I've heard about rattle-canning the frame:

• It takes more paint than you expect, due to overspray
• It makes a huge mess, due to....... overspray
• It's difficult to get even coverage and to avoid runs

Pro's would be, easy touchup, can weld onto the frame later if you want, and it is generally cheaper than powder coat.

Hard to say though, I only paid $385 for my frame to be powder-coated and it was a bang-up job. I did go back later and have them do misc parts and my fuel tank, for under $100.

 

[RGSkid70]

I painted my frame myself, and ended up regretting it. Overspray was a big problem; I wasted about 80% of my material. To make sure you get good coverage, you should probably build a large jig or stand to spin the frame on its long axis while you spray. I didn't do that, and ended up with many bare spots requiring touch-up. If I had do-over, I would have it powder coated.

 

[Ross]

I have welded on the frame over 5 times, (billet shifter, A pillars, AT front bars, halo bar, seatbelt bar, hatchback spoiler, etc) and I like the option to weld on in the future.
I'm not concerned about a nice shiny frame, as the body panels are what catches the eye first.
I do have to do touch ups, as chips happen. Even on powder coat, although it is tougher.

 

[Gtstorey]

Wet sanding and cutting/buffing can correct a lot of the overspray problems. And of course proper gun set up can minimize them to start with (but not eliminate).

 

[Traé]

Got the opportunity to paint my subframe today. It turned out just like I imagined. I can’t wait for the kit to arrive and get the chassis painted.

Color is “Euro Racing Green” from Eastwood.

 

[Doug Rostad]

Got the opportunity to paint my subframe today. It turned out just like I imagined. I can’t wait for the kit to arrive and get the chassis painted.

Color is “Euro Racing Green” from Eastwood.

That did turn out really nice!!! I like the color!!!

 

[Traé]

Stayed busy in the garage for almost 12 hours yesterday. Mostly stripping the engine of parts I am going to clean and paint with some kind of aluminum paint (thinking Seymour or Eastwood).

Got the AC compressor broken down and ready. I traced out the thin metal gasket onto a piece of stock metal and used that as a template. Riveted it in place with some gasket maker I had.

I have most of the parts prepped and painted ready to install. Still need to order some things that I will utilize in stage 1.

I didn’t take any pictures but I am fairly certain that my engine has jumped timing and may have a bad tensioner. I rotated the engine a handful of times and could never get the teeth to line up on the colored marks even with cylinder 1 at TDC. While rotating the chain has a moment where there is a lot of slack and it snap back into place.

 

[Rauq]

I didn’t take any pictures but I am fairly certain that my engine has jumped timing and may have a bad tensioner. I rotated the engine a handful of times and could never get the teeth to line up on the colored marks even with cylinder 1 at TDC. While rotating the chain has a moment where there is a lot of slack and it snap back into place.

Slack in the chain is probably a bad tensioner but I recall someone's timing set install video or instructions mentioning it takes hundreds of revolutions to get the timing marks to line back up again, not necessarily indicative of skipped timing.

 

[mike_sno]

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I didn’t take any pictures but I am fairly certain that my engine has jumped timing and may have a bad tensioner. I rotated the engine a handful of times and could never get the teeth to line up on the colored marks even with cylinder 1 at TDC. While rotating the chain has a moment where there is a lot of slack and it snap back into place.

Did you turned the engine in the right direction? If you turn it wrong side you first walk against the tensioner which creates more slack once you stop.

I had recently my timing chain off when I repaird my damaged head gasket. Wanna say it was surprised as well how often I had to turn it until it lines up, but it was for sure less than 10, maybe even less than 5. It for sure felt a lot. Keep in mind one engine cycle is 720 degree or in other words the cams run at 1/2 engine speed.

 

[Traé]

Did you turned the engine in the right direction? If you turn it wrong side you first walk against the tensioner which creates more slack once you stop.

I had recently my timing chain off when I repaird my damaged head gasket. Wanna say it was surprised as well how often I had to turn it until it lines up, but it was for sure less than 10, maybe even less than 5. It for sure felt a lot. Keep in mind one engine cycle is 720 degree or in other words the cams run at 1/2 engine speed.

I turned it between 5-10 times clockwise looking at the front of the engine. Never saw them line up with any of the colored links. It could be true that it takes many more times as @Rauq mentioned but I have no clue. I’ll have to research more. I am however replacing it all so not terribly worried, the previous owner could not confirm it has been done.