V1 How long runs your cooling fan after the engine is off?

[Robinjo]

Just cut and splice.

Yup, I just cut mine in like wht the videos said to do. I did put a connector as recommended as you'll eventually need to disconnect it to pull your engine.

 

[mike_sno]

Ok, I took the fusebox appart. I marked the cable from F10 it seems like it's connected. But like I said, impossible to find out where that goes. The harness is really nice wrapped. The seller did an awesome job with the harness. Looks like it's factory new.

What gauge cable do I need to buy? Is AWG 14 ok?

 

[Gtstorey]

The distance is getting a little long for 14g wire. And the stock fuse is a 30a. I would use 12g. But you could probably get by with 14g if you use a 20a fuse. But I haven’t checked the amp pull of the DF fan.

 

[Gtstorey]

I would confirm that circuit is functioning when the car gets hot to make sure the original builder didn’t have a reason for doing something different.

 

[mike_sno]

Ok is there a way to test it without having the engine run? Like a test mode or can I use a heat gun on 220F with the water sensor ?

 

[mike_sno]

I think I grab one of this relais https://amzn.to/3saRhlr and replace the fuse in the fuesbox with a 2a fuse, run a 16 or 17awg to the front and power the fan relays directly from the battery up front. If the car does not give the right output signal then I can later put a temp sensor and a small temp controller to the front of the car and run it independent from the ECU.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Mike, wire gauges are opposite to normal thinking - the lower the number the larger the wire. A 16-17 gauge wire is actually smaller than a 14 gauge wire. @Gtstorey stating to use a 12 gauge wire is stating to use a larger diameter wire than the 14 gauge you first stated.

BTW, I hope you are talking about stranded wire and not solid wire that is typically used inside house wiring. Solid wire works fine for AC voltages, not so much for DC voltages in a car. You must use stranded wire if you will be replacing the wire in the harness.

 

[mike_sno]

Yes, I understand. That's why I am using a 2A fuse and not the 30A.

 

[mike_sno]

Is B+ in this diagram always hot or is it switched somewhere? http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php...g-fan-after-the-engine-is-off.4592/post-91853

It could be that the relay is simply melted and instead of Normaly open, permanently closed. I will try tomorrow to switch Fan 1 and Fan 2 relays.

 

[mike_sno]

Hmm, can someone confirm that the relay is oriented the right way? I just thought I could quickly measure the contacts when I saw that Fan 1 and Fan 2 relays are turned 180 deg. It also seems there is no protection against accidentaly putting them in 180 deg wrong.

 

[Ross]

Relays are designed be rotated, so either way works.
The coil is on opposite corners, as are the switch wires.
Some relays have 3 switch wires (NC,NO,Input) so those relays have 5 contacts, and only fit in the fuse box one way.

 

[mike_sno]

Ahh, ok that make sens. Just pulled the relays and bench tested it. The relays works fine. Before I do anything else, I will start the car and pull the relays when the fan is running and see if the fan goes off. If so I know the wiring is correct after the fuse box.

 

[Joebob]

I would put one end of a multimeter checking for continuity into the top of the fuse block at the F10 location like you have in the picture. Then put the other end to the front of the car which should have a spade connector to the unplugged + location of the radiator fan. If you have continuity, then it is wired correctly and there may be something with the tune causing the fan to come on. If it does not have continuity, I would cut the light blue wire about 4-5" from the fuse block and run a new 12ga wire from the fuse block, through the tunnel, and to the radiator fan directly. The nice thing is that the tunnel is open the whole length and you can use a fiberglass fishing tool to pull the wire through.

Joe

 

[mike_sno]

Just started the engine. The fan comes on a few seconds after the engine is running. Like 5 or 10.
The ambient and coolant temperature is around 88F at that time. I switched off the engine immediately and the fan continues to run.
I pulled the relay and the fan goes off.

This tells me:

The wiring of the fan is correct. The ECU output is working to as the relays get switched on and off. Somehow the ECU must command to switch the relay on.

Ideas?

HP Tuner device is on its way. No other error codes are reported in the Android torque pro app.

 

[Joebob]

Post your tune and people can take a look to see if it is commanded to run more than stock.

 

[Gtstorey]

Are there settings in some of the ECM’s to allow it to run after ignition off?

 

[Joebob]

This is from my stock 2008 2.4

 

[Gtstorey]

That's more than I remember for my LNF so maybe someone has those settings screwed up and will resolve the issue.

 

[mike_sno]

Ill keep you posted when I get the HP Tuner.

 

[mike_sno]

HP Tuner still not here. Drove yesterday when it was 94F outside around and had the relays pulled. Temperature never got above 192F even in stop and go traffic.