V1 Corey's track Goblin #261 LSJ-T swapped 06 Donor G85, Cont.........

[Corey]

Recap:
Took for 1/4 mile drive on 2/19/2023, Extreme power!!
Started Goblin on 2/20/2023 to back out of garage and clean garage, Started normally which means a couple of tries and blip the gas pedal and she started. Really 45 secs of run time at best.
Went to pull back in the garage after cleaning and would not start.
No consistent fuel at the schrader valve last night.
Spark at cylinder 1.

Update:
Schrader valve at the fuel line does appear to give consistent fuel now. Previously the valve only trickled but after disconnecting the fuel filter earlier the fuel started to flow as I would expect. FALSE HOPES AND DREAMS when the schrader acted normal.

Pulled spark plugs and all seemed slightly damp, sprayed with brake kleen and reinstalled. Had a couple blips of hope but that was all.
Sprayed some engine starter fluid in intake pipe between the A2W and manifold, nothing new.

Placed rag over intake pipe and could see suction was being developed while cranking. Placed rag in spark plug hole during cranking and could see rag trying to be pushed back up.

Drained oil and checked for metal shavings. No metal shavings found on magnet.

Inline fuel pressure gauge leaks down from 49 psi to 20 psi after around 10 mins.

Honestly I am starting to lean towards timing is slightly off due to blipping the throttle to start before yesterday and if it jumped a tooth during 2/19/2023 drive.

 

[Corey]

Fuel is plumbed Gas Tank/Pump>Fuel Filter>Fuel Line with Schrader Valve>OTTP Fuel Rail>Fuel Gauge>Line to Regulator (side inlet)>Line to Gas tank from bottom outlet of regulator.

I am really leaning to timing chain jump, It ran on 2/18 and 2/19 plumbed as is and no changes.

 

[Ross]

Did your engine get the basic maintenance items?
If your timing chain jumped a tooth, you might want to check for good compression ratios, maybe a leak down test.

 

[Corey]

Did your engine get the basic maintenance items?
If your timing chain jumped a tooth, you might want to check for good compression ratios, maybe a leak down test.
View attachment 38613

 

[Ross]

That's a new timing chain tensioner.
Take the cover off (big allan head bolt/cover) of the chain guide, and see if the plastic guide is in good health. The stock black one will break if the chain starts slapping around. Below is the green ZZP upgraded one.

 

[Corey]

View attachment 38615

Basic maintenance items:
These items were most likely changed. The build thus far by previous owner seems to have been very thorough!

 

[Ross]

Basic maintenance items:
These items were most likely changed. The build thus far by previous owner seems to have been very thorough!

If the maintenance is done, then the chain shouldn't jump a tooth... maybe a new theory?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

You've got air draw, compression, fuel and (supposedly) spark - all the basics for 'suck, squeeze, ---, blow' but no 'bang'. Assuming none of the electrical connections were messed with during your troubleshooting, but with wet spark plugs makes me believe the coils are not firing off? Try putting a hard ground wire from the engine block to the bare metal frame ground near the fuse box.

 

[Gtstorey]

I've always heard that if it doesn't try and start with starting fluid, it's not sparking, unless there is major engine mechanical problems.

 

[Corey]

You've got air draw, compression, fuel and (supposedly) spark - all the basics for 'suck, squeeze, ---, blow' but no 'bang'. Assuming none of the electrical connections were messed with during your troubleshooting, but with wet spark plugs makes me believe the coils are not firing off? Try putting a hard ground wire from the engine block to the bare metal frame ground near the fuse box.

Spark atleast at cylinder 1.

I've always heard that if it doesn't try and start with starting fluid, it's not sparking, unless there is major engine mechanical problems.

I went ahead and drained oil looking for metal bits thankfully nothing so far.

 

[Corey]

 

[Joebob]

From what I have read. the timing links are only for initial alignment and as such once running is a "hunting" style chain which means the does not land on the same teeth all the time.

Since it looked like an impressive build, I would look more electrical than mechanical issues. Do you have solid grounds, does the TB open with pedal application, is the CANBUS reading correctly, clutch, brake, throttle switch functioning?

Any DTC codes?

Joe

 

[Corey]

Basically at TDC, Both lobes on the IN and EXT look not engaged, CYL 1 and 4 both visible thru spark plug holes.

From what I have read. the timing links are only for initial alignment and as such once running is a "hunting" style chain which means the does not land on the same teeth all the time.

Since it looked like an impressive build, I would look more electrical than mechanical issues. Do you have solid grounds, does the TB open with pedal application, is the CANBUS reading correctly, clutch, brake, throttle switch functioning?

Any DTC codes?

Joe

That makes sense as I came up with the indicator links and the IN and EXH marks on the cams at diff link counts each time I would rotate. Everything under the valve cover is looking just as solid as the rest of the build looks.

Grounds appear solid, TB flutters with the pedal, does not rotate unless clutch is depressed when the key is turned. Just got the goblin so no reader for DTCs yet. Honestly I have not made it far enough along to know what the CANBUS or throttle switch are yet. Obviously I will start looking at CANBUS and throttle switch next!!!!! I have found several plugs not plugged in, but nothing to be concerned with yet....AC, driver and pass radiator fans, SC pressure switch etc....

One rotation the INT was off by 4 links/tooth a couple more rotations and off by 1 link/tooth.

Is there a brake switch requirement?

 

[Corey]

That's a new timing chain tensioner.
Take the cover off (big allan head bolt/cover) of the chain guide, and see if the plastic guide is in good health. The stock black one will break if the chain starts slapping around. Below is the green ZZP upgraded one.
View attachment 38616

Chain guide is green and appears newer and healthy

 

[Ross]

There is a clutch switch requirement to start the engine... No brake switch requirement that I know of.
CANBUS is basically what the car talks between the electronic modules. When you plug into the OBDii port, you are talking CANBUS.

 

[Corey]

Just a photo upload since I have the cover off

 

[Ross]

That is the cleanest head I've seen. Fresh out of the dunk tank.
ZZP cams?

 

[Ark :D]

I don't know, I think I've seen a cleaner head than that, somewhere...

 

[Corey]

Pretty sure the valve cover gasket is growing longer each time I look at it!

 

[Corey]

That is the cleanest head I've seen. Fresh out of the dunk tank.
ZZP cams?

Yes ZZP Stage 2 turbo cams